The arch that makes up the first half of Runamuck is one of the more recognizable features on the right side of the Shield. To find the start of the route, look for an hourglass shaped flake that leans against the base of the wall beneath the arch. Climb the unprotected face for about 25 feet to the beginning of the arch (there is a good medium stopper placement here), and the follow it to the right (protects well with a variety of cams up to a #1 Camalot). As you traverse to the right you will past a couple of bolts on the face below you. At the end of the arch, place your last piece of pro for a while and turn the corner up into a small, shallow dihedral. Climb to a headwall with a couple of cracks running through it. There are a couple places here for small, spotty stopper placements that may or may not hold a fall, but the climbing is fairly positive to the anchor ledge. You can either rap from anchors along the ledge, or scramble up and over the top. Fun, thought provoking climb with a healthy runnout after the arch.
Standard trad rack with cams up to a #1 Camalot. Micro-stoppers and a #3 Camalot will also come in handy.
Feb 14, 2014
The original name given this route by the first ascentionists was Farewell to Arms. But I guess by the time the guide books were written the name was lost to history.