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Run Like Hell 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: SA, Jean Francois Camson, Windy Greer
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

This fine crack route is located just left of Furchrissakes, and ascends a series of right-leaning, left-facing corners that head towards the left edge of a large roof. Start about 15 feet left of Furchrissakes (most will use the first 5 feet of Oppositional Defiance Disorder to start), looking for three parallel cracks, the right most being a clean corner starting 20 feet up, above some small ledges. Scramble up the ledges, and climb up the first corner (crux) to a stance below a roof. Move out right around the roof to another left-facing corner to a stance below the large roof (do not be lured off left onto the flake which is left of this corner system). Although 8 feet below the roof it is possible to move left and climb into an easier, dirtier weakness, the more aesthetic line moves up and right to the obvious flake/handcrack below the left side of the roof. Gain the clean crack, then step back left and up to a stance with a bolted anchor. It is highly recommended to finish straight up on the second pitch of Few Species (5.10a) to its anchor at the top of the wall. These two pitches have been lead as one long pitch, and are a superb challenge at this grade, yielding a 3 star route. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars, pitch 1.)

Protection 

Pro to 3.5", with recommended dubles in the .5" to 3" range, anchors.

location 

The first crack system left of Furchissakes (see Squeezing the Lemmon.) Head for the right "triple cracks" feature when approximately 20 feet up.


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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Aug 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

An outstanding route with some committing laybacks, I used the wimpy finish towards the top of the first pitch as I didn't feel like running it out too much above a green Alien...

I had done the correct finish on an earlier pinkpoint attempt and had a little too vivid of a memory of being 8-10 feet out from that Alien on some balancey moves left under the final roof..
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 12, 2008

Followed Christian up this route on tr a few months back at which point i was introduced to the term 'psychological pro'. Great climb with some thought-provoking sequences especially coming up to and around the small roof system.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

incredible, committing laybacks!
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
May 1, 2009

Amazing route. Very demanding layback moves.
By Amy Whitacre
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 14, 2010

Beautiful climb. Lots of fun moves!
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 18, 2012

Instead of going right under the small roof 2/3 of the way up, you can go left up a clean, overhanging hand-crack flake. I thought this was even better than going right, and about the same difficulty. Ends at the same anchor.