|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||P.1 Peter Lewis & Robert Sagerman, summer 2001, P.2 Peter Lewis & Brian Johnston, summer 2001|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy A on Aug 30, 2011|
|Comments on Run Don't Walk||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jul 29, 2015
|RDW starts up the little clean buttress ten feet left of Above and Beyond's initial r-facing corner. Look for a white pine on a ledgy area 20 feet up. Crux is above the pine. To call this an "overhanging climb" is misleading. Yes, there is a steep, bulgy crux section past the first two bolts on the first pitch, but if it's overhanging it's barely overhanging and only about 10 feet long. And "roof" is quite the overstatement, too. Three pulls on big jugs (.9) get you to easier ground. Pitch two is just nice, moderately steep face climbing.|
By Robert Hall
Nov 10, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I thought this was a climb that, once you knew the sequence, and best hand placements, would be significantly easier than the first time you do it. I found myself wasting energy moving my initial hand placements to better-feeling placements, which then usually meant the feet had to change too. Of course, if you're mega-strong just "climb away".
B1 could be 4-6" lower ( and I'm 6 ft ) but there's a nice horizontal Cam/Tricam slot below it.