Rumplestiltskin 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Bertrand Gramont & Don Goodhew 5/88, Direct Start: Porter Jarrard |
| Submitted By: | DisturbingThePeace on Jul 26, 2006 |
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Matthew NM moving up into the resting corner on Ru...
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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Another classic tower endurance climb. Starts in a small dihedral through entertaining and easier than thy look moves. Continue up with big pulls between big pockets to a large rest. Figure out how to snag a rest here (I've heard of people sitting on the ledge), or if the pump clock is ticking start the sprint up the final headwall. Continue on steep rock for the next three bolts then enjoy the easier ground to the anchors.
Location Look for the small dihedral just right of "Once Upon a Time". Last climb on the starting ledge for "Once Upon a Time" and "Grendel". Between "Once Upon A Time" & "White Witch".
Protection 9 Bolts + Anchors, Stickclip so you don't fall of the ledge.
Matthew NM nearing the end of the steep bit and th...
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Matthew NM chucking another lap.
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Nearing the climbs 1/2 way point: on RP
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Lower moves
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Mid-section
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Meghan on
Rumplestiltskin
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Meghan's "life preserver rest"
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pulling the crux moves of
Rumplestiltskin
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Meghan at the crux of
Rumplestiltskin
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Rumplestiltskin action. July 2012.
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| Comments on Rumplestiltskin |
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| The third bolt is still missing on Rumple, but you can clip a bolt on the next route to the right at about the same height. Of course doing so is not ideal, but if you fall moving through the next section to the 4th bolt you at least won't deck.
Best. |
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
May 1, 2011
| The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it? |
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 12, 2011
| As of Sept 2011, the missing bolt has been replaced. |
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