Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush 5.10+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | D. Montgomery/ M. Sheridan, 9-26-09 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | sunny most of the day |
| Submitted By: | Monty on Sep 26, 2009 |
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Me at the crux on the FA.
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The Skinny! This route is a new addition on the left side of Creekside. It makes for a good warm up before hopping on Brennivin, or a fun finish to a day at Guppy and Fish and Chips. It's a fun, techy 10d on good rock. Start just left of the first pitch of the Brennivin. Follow solid black rock right for 2 bolts, step left, crimp over a small bulge, rest, then angle right on solid black rock on some small crimpers (crux) to great jugs to the anchor. As of now, it's not a bad idea for the belayer to wear a helmet (some small flakes here and there), but it will clean up very nice with traffic.
Location This is just left of the first pitch of Brennivin. Approach via Shenanigans, or wade across the creek in low water.
Protection 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
Mike near the anchor on the FA.
| Purple is Winterfest Red is [[Rumplem...
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| Comments on Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush |
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By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.10+
| KILLER, man! Good work! |
By Monty From: Morrison, Co Sep 29, 2009
| Thanks Darren, I wanted to call this Rumplemintz to keep the theme of the wall goin' (I hate Rumplemintz). Mike and I changed our minds about the name when I trundled a large death block after making sure nothing would get hit. Just my luck it hit my hammer, the force ripped off my gear loop, which my drill and hammer were attached to, and sent both flying for about 60' to be caught in a bush virtually unharmed. So, even though this route is called Rumplemintz... to us it will always be known as Drillin' the Bush. |
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey Sep 29, 2009
| Good job on the route, D! Glad your drill made it! That's a reason I always clip mine to my belay loop on a long leash - just in case.... |
By rob bauer From: Golden, CO Oct 18, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d
| Gorgeous day today, and we climbed all 3 pitches shown in the detail photo, right, middle and left (red, yellow & green). Rumplemintz, was the hardest; probably 5.10c/d. I broke off a lot of friable edges, but it will clean up nicely. The middle (regular approach to Brennivin) was psychologically the hardest for me, but I'd agree with the 5.10 b/c rating. The right most variation was the easiest (and delightful!) and struck us both as about 5.10a on that great black rock. (Qualifications: I figure I'm a good 5.10 climber and am 5'8". My partner is 5'3"?) Anyhow, 3 very good pitches: go do them! (We had 11 QD's with us, which was plenty, plus anchors, but I didn't count which ones took what.) |
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