Off finger and thin hand cracks don't come easy. Eventually, the nuances of the ring lock, the meat lock, the toe jam smear and the pain-is-my-friend jam become second nature. I'm still waiting for that day. If, like me, your skills are in need of some honing, then this varied and aesthetic route will offer some schooling.
The gear is bomber. A couple rests can be found along the way. And, some foot holds on the face provide relief for the toes. The last few feet to the anchor are the crux, a thin splitter hand crack.
Identify this route by its long thin crack and its left facing slot/overhang near the top. It is located on the left side of the cliff between Dusty Trails to Nowhere and a short off width flake called Twelve Point Buck.
1 #1 TCU, 2 #2 TCUs, 4 #3 TCUs, 6 #4 TCUs, 3 #5 TCUs & 1 #2.5 Fr.
BETA PHOTO: Rump Roast II
the onley crux of the route.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
I thought this was a great route, nice and sustained all the way to the anchor.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008
Really fun route. Thin opening moves to easier ground to a tough offset .75 crack out of the pod. Tought me how to finger stack though. Works well for this size.
|By Brian Adzima|
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Mar 31, 2009
Several really good rests at pods if you work your feet out on the face.