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Rump Roast II 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,254
Submitted By: Craig Quincy on Sep 30, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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shaking out at the crux..


Off finger and thin hand cracks don't come easy. Eventually, the nuances of the ring lock, the meat lock, the toe jam smear and the pain-is-my-friend jam become second nature. I'm still waiting for that day. If, like me, your skills are in need of some honing, then this varied and aesthetic route will offer some schooling.

The gear is bomber. A couple rests can be found along the way. And, some foot holds on the face provide relief for the toes. The last few feet to the anchor are the crux, a thin splitter hand crack.

Identify this route by its long thin crack and its left facing slot/overhang near the top. It is located on the left side of the cliff between Dusty Trails to Nowhere and a short off width flake called Twelve Point Buck.


1 #1 TCU, 2 #2 TCUs, 4 #3 TCUs, 6 #4 TCUs, 3 #5 TCUs & 1 #2.5 Fr.

Photos of Rump Roast II Slideshow Add Photo
Rump Roast II
the onley crux of the  route.
the onley crux of the route.
ring locks
ring locks

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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I thought this was a great route, nice and sustained all the way to the anchor.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008

Really fun route. Thin opening moves to easier ground to a tough offset .75 crack out of the pod. Tought me how to finger stack though. Works well for this size.

By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Mar 31, 2009

Several really good rests at pods if you work your feet out on the face.
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