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100% Columbian S 
A Week With Pete S 
Cafe au Lait S 
Centerfold T 
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Curly for President S 
Dead Sea Equestrian S 
Easily Amused S 
Easily Aroused S 
Egg McMeadows S 
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Juan Valdez S 
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Rubicon S 
Rumor Has It T 
Shealyn's Way S 
Shemp Lives S 
Squeeze My Lemon S 

Rumor Has It 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Keefe '02
Page Views: 556
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: The route starts on a jug in the big dark roof... ...
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the low roof to the right of Week With Pete. It was in the last two guide books as an open project. Rumor has it that it was sent a few seasons ago.

Start under the roof on a good jug and no feet but the ones above your head. Small crimps and tricky feet are enough to get you powerfully to a good hold. Then power up and shoot for a jug above the lone glue in bolt. From here I led straight up with trad gear then traversed right to the last bolt on Espresso then finished on that so I could use it's anchor. I'm not sure where the first ascent finished but straight up was dirty and lacked an anchor as far as I could see.

The bouldery start is quite good in my opinion. The upper section is much easier and nothing special as far as movement goes. It would get done some if it was bolted.


Location 

Between Week With Pete and Espresso.


Protection 

One bolt then gear then to the top of the cliff or to the anchor of Espresso. Regular rack.



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2012

A note on the grade and the name:
Rumor has it that this route was done a while back but not really reported so that seems like a good name unless another one comes from the FAist.
Rumor also says that he called it hard 5.12. i felt it was a v7 boulder problem followed by 5.8 which would sound like 13a... it is just tough to rate routes like this so im calling it 12d for now and hope others climb it and come up with a consensus...

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 17, 2012

Wow. A hard boulder problem followed by a little trad action. Now that is unique!

Sounds fun. Congrats on the send!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 17, 2012

thanks much, it is interesting.. but if folks want it bolted ill throw a few in there... what do the people say?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 18, 2012

Got some FA info... Matt Keefe did the FA in 2002, Tim Derohen did it in 2003, and it may have seen another... A name never stuck to it so this name will stand for now... Both of them thought 5.12d sounded right...

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 4, 2013

It would be good to bolt if the FA'ist doesn't mind.

By Eric Leclerc
Jan 31, 2014

If it gets bolted, I'll go for it that's for sure...