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Rumney, yeah!!!
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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Feb 19, 2014

I'm going to Rumney with some friends over spring break in 1 month. Looking for a little beta?
1) what should I focus on for my last bit of training?
2) how's the weather looking? I can do cold and wet, but I'm wondering whether there will be reasonably dry routes.
3) where should I camp, get groceries, etc.?

Thanks guys!


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Feb 19, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

Rumney has all kinds of styles, but many have weird technical, bouldery cruxes. It would help if your bouldering skills are sharp, then add some endurance for the longer steep routes.

If we knew the grades you were looking to get on, we would have some idea of possible routes and what they entail.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Feb 19, 2014
Stoked...

Plenty of forum topics about the where to questions... try the search feature on the top right of your screen.


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By andyelliott
Feb 19, 2014
Red River Gorge.

why dont you go somewhere warm? you will definitely be sleeping on the snow if you are planning to camp in a tent. theres a hannaford down the road.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Feb 19, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

1. Boulder! Most Rumney routes are boulder problems separated by good rests. Of course there are exceptions, but that's the general idea.

2. Main Cliff will be dry no matter what. Waimea and Prudential are the other consistently dry cliffs.

3. Best camping is probably at D Acres. Plymouth has everything you need. Peppercorn in downtown Plymouth is a good organic foods store. Otherwise Hannaford. If you're on a budget, WalMart.

Like Mark said, if you give us an idea of the grades/styles you're looking for, we can spray a lot more about Rumney.


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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Feb 19, 2014

Thanks guys. I haven't sport climbed outside in quite a while, and have been training 4 days a week indoors, so the best I can give is an (un)educated guess. I've bouldered a few V6's in different styles (to the extent that indoor bouldering grades can tell you how well you're gonna do on routes - tenuous relationship, I know) and am getting close on a couple 7s. My guess is that I'll be projecting between upper 11s and mid 12s. I really want to try to work Black Mamba, Crusher, Technosurfing, Whiptide, and mayyybbe Man Overboard (though I'm really flying blind as to whether any/all of these are within my capacity). Most of my partners climb in the same general range, with our rope gun clocking in around V8.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Feb 19, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Jon Frisby wrote:
Thanks guys. I haven't sport climbed outside in quite a while, and have been training 4 days a week indoors, so the best I can give is an (un)educated guess. I've bouldered a few V6's in different styles (to the extent that indoor bouldering grades can tell you how well you're gonna do on routes - tenuous relationship, I know) and am getting close on a couple 7s. My guess is that I'll be projecting between upper 11s and mid 12s. I really want to try to work Black Mamba, Crusher, Technosurfing, Whiptide, and mayyybbe Man Overboard (though I'm really flying blind as to whether any/all of these are within my capacity). Most of my partners climb in the same general range, with our rope gun clocking in around V8.


I think you're right to be thinking about routes at Waimea. Techno and Whiptide will surely be dry (the boulder cruxes on both are probably V4 or 5). Consider checking out Big Kahuna--it's a great bouldery route with a crux ~V6. It is always dry. Man Overboard is a great route, but really frustrating (crux is the last move). It's also likely to be windy and cold under the roof.

The routes over at Orange Crush (Black Mamba, Crusher) will probably not be dry. Orange Crush is the wettest cliff at Rumney and holds snow/ice for a long time.

Main Cliff will be a good bet. Check out Peanut Man (12a now that a hold broke). Also, Social Outcast at Bonsai is a great 12a, though it's more pumpy than bouldery. It would probably be dry, though Bonsai tends to be a bit cold.

If you're into getting off the beaten path, Prudential is awesome. It's really sunny and the 12s on the cliff are excellent.


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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Feb 19, 2014

Jay Knower wrote:
I think you're right to be thinking about routes at Waimea. Techno and Whiptide will surely be dry (the boulder cruxes on both are probably V4 or 5). Consider checking out Big Kahuna--it's a great bouldery route with a crux ~V6. It is always dry. Man Overboard is a great route, but really frustrating (crux is the last move). It's also likely to be windy and cold under the roof. The routes over at Orange Crush (Black Mamba, Crusher) will probably not be dry. Orange Crush is the wettest cliff at Rumney and holds snow/ice for a long time. Main Cliff will be a good bet. Check out Peanut Man (12a now that a hold broke). Also, Social Outcast at Bonsai is a great 12a, though it's more pumpy than bouldery. It would probably be dry, though Bonsai tends to be a bit cold. If you're into getting off the beaten path, Prudential is awesome. It's really sunny and the 12s on the cliff are excellent.

sweet deal. Thanks Jay!


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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Feb 19, 2014

The Blackjack boulders are definitely worth a visit, and if it's cold you've got a better shot at keeping warm bouldering than dangling on the end of a rope. If you're into it, check out some of my faves:

Zig Zag Crack - V1
Child Prodigy - V6
Spraqueasorus - V5
Pyramid Power - V8
Bobby's Problem - V7


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By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 19, 2014

Hey Jay- might as well hit bouldering in Waterville valley as well ??? it's pretty close by


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Feb 19, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

If the Main cliff is open, it should be great in March, but the Ironman section of it is often closed for nesting peregrines then. Keep an eye for postings about that here or the orange signs posted on the kiosk or trees around the cliff


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By Russ Keane
Feb 19, 2014
Where's Waldo?

It could be pretty cold, snowy/icy, and downright difficult in March. My opinion is that indoor bouldering V6 or not is really no match for 11 and 12 outdoor sport routes.... But go for it, good luck!


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By Rob DeBruyn
From Burlington, VT
Feb 19, 2014
Flying Monkeys, 12c

Russ Keane wrote:
It could be pretty cold, snowy/icy, and downright difficult in March. My opinion is that indoor bouldering V6 or not is really no match for 11 and 12 outdoor sport routes.... But go for it, good luck!


While I agree about the weather, don't let the discussion of indoor bouldering grades discourage you from trying Techno and Whiptide. V6 is about all I'm doing indoors and those routes went just fine for me. In fact, I don't think my climbing partner has ever climbed a V6 indoors or out, and she made the crux of Techno look like a walk in the park when she redpointed. Best of luck with your trip!


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By Patrick Heddins
From Avon, Colorado
Feb 19, 2014

The folks at the Rumney Village Store are great.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Feb 19, 2014
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

john strand wrote:
Hey Jay- might as well hit bouldering in Waterville valley as well ??? it's pretty close by


John, thanks for the Waterville shoutout! I was going to suggest it, but during that time, it should still be pretty snowy. Last year had far less snow than this year, and there was snow until mid April.


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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Feb 23, 2014

M Sprague wrote:
If the Main cliff is open, it should be great in March, but the Ironman section of it is often closed for nesting peregrines then. Keep an eye for postings about that here or the orange signs posted on the kiosk or trees around the cliff

I saw somewhere that that started a little later, but I'll for sure confirm before climbing. Thanks for the heads up


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Feb 23, 2014

Jon Frisby wrote:
I'm going to Rumney with some friends over spring break in 1 month. Looking for a little beta? 1) what should I focus on for my last bit of training? 2) how's the weather looking? I can do cold and wet, but I'm wondering whether there will be reasonably dry routes. 3) where should I camp, get groceries, etc.? Thanks guys!


Rumney is great, but at that time I would seriously consider heading south...or west.


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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Feb 23, 2014

Any tips for power endurance-y routes in that range? I've got pretty big hands and sausage fingers and am not great on the crimpy granite in NY. I heard Social Outcast was a must-do for people like me


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By Eric Chabot
From Thetford Ctr, VT
Feb 23, 2014

You might check out the New Wave...there's a couple 12a's there that are without extreme bouldery cruxes. Not sure how New Wave will compare wetness wise (probably better than OC but not as good as main cliff I would imagine). They are called Weevil Kneivel and Vallee Daze and are both sweet.

Weevil might be wet and the top of Vallee Daze (easier climbing) probly will too but if you get a string of dry days they might be climbable. If you hike up to OC and it is soaked go check out New Wave it's literally right above orange crush.

At main cliff, try and send Peanut Man! also do Know Ethics (11a to the 1st set of chains) with the Iron Man extension (11c with a sweet didier-esque mono undercling fingerlock which might be wet)


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Feb 24, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

Stone Temple Pilot at the Prudential might be what you are looking for and there are some other great routes right next to it. The Prudential
is nice that time of year with the leaves down and the sun beaming in, as Jay mentioned. Get to it by taking the trail from the far west end of the Black Jack boulders, up past the NW Territories.


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Feb 24, 2014

Jon Frisby wrote:
Any tips for power endurance-y routes in that range? I've got pretty big hands and sausage fingers and am not great on the crimpy granite in NY. I heard Social Outcast was a must-do for people like me


Orangahang would be good if it is dry. easy to check if you go uphill from Bonsai to check it out.

definitely Outcast. Jedi Mind tricks at vadar should be dry


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By Mark NH
Feb 24, 2014

As long as you get sun you should have no problem climbing at Rumney in March. It faces south. I climbed Shaelyn's Way as a mixed route on an 18 degree, no wind sunny day. And had no problems taking off my gloves to make the rock moves.

And yes, it is listed as a mixed route in the NH Ice and Alpine Climbing section.


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By Jon Frisby
From New York, NY
Mar 14, 2014

Hey - weather update bump. I'm OK climbing if it's cold (which looks to be the case). Does anyone in the area know whether it's going to be possible to climb next week?


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By Matt Wilson
From Bethel, Vermont, USA
Mar 14, 2014

Next week is looking to be mostly sunny albeit cold (low 20's). This time of year the sun is getting warmer so main cliff (which is south facing) should be pretty nice. Keep in mind that we just had a huge snowstorm. I don't know the snowfall in Rumney, but over here around central Vermont we had upwards of 2 feet. Bring you snow boots and snow pants for the approach!


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By Matt Wilson
From Bethel, Vermont, USA
Mar 14, 2014

I should add that the second half of next week is looking to be warmer (mid 30's) but cloudier. You may find low 20's and sunny is nicer.


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By lukeweiss
Mar 14, 2014

I was just there today. I just climbed some of the unnamed stuff on the parking lot wall.
Almost all of the parking lot stuff is in, and in decent shape. This weekend will see some melt, but it should be good next week. It gets pretty messy in the sun though, so perhaps some of the stuff that is not directly in the sun (Shaelyn's and the chimney) will be in the best shape.


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