Rum Tum Tugger 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Richard Wright and Ann Brandonburg Schroeder |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Dec 2, 2001 |
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Liggin, skating his way out the spooky opening tra...
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Open according to a Jeff CO ranger MORE INFO >>>
After months of negotiation, Clear Creek County successfully acquired the 76-acre Oxbow Parcel that contains the Cat Slab cliff. While the cliff line is protected, the area is now officially open to the public. The County is working on developing and implementing a site plan to provide safe, off-road parking, which may include shifting the guard rail and gate to provide more parking as a short-term solution.
Cat Slab was a popular crag before it was closed to the public in 2006 due to liability concerns. The County purchased the land using $725,000 in lottery funds, awarded by Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO). The County was supported by numerous recreational groups, including the Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, Colorado Whitewater, Trout Unlimited, International Mountain Bicycling Association, and Rafting Outfitters on Clear Creek.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Reach the anchors atop Grizabella (5.7 - 95 feet - Route 9 on the topo), the farthest right route on the Catslab proper. Climb up and right along a ledge clipping two bolts with longer draws before climbing up and back left across an arete. Don't panic after the second bolt, your X-ray vision or a judicious glance around the arete will turn up the easy to clip third bolt. The route finally attacks the upper roof in a corner off of sidepulls and jugs. The belayer will be able to hear but not see the climber between the third and eighth bolts. Interesting moves around the arete and roof and fortunately well protected for the not so perfect rock quality - somewhat scaly and brittle in places. Yet, all of the critical holds were solid.
Protection 10 bolts - 2 bolt coldshut anchor - 80 feet from the anchors atop Grizabella. 2 ropes or 200 foot rope needed to descend from Grizabella.
T-bone Tod Bol on a low-gravity day, gracing his w...
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| Comments on Rum Tum Tugger |
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By darren
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 25, 2001
| [I don't] think the .12 up above is 12. Quite an awesome route with great position....
-darren |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 26, 2001
| I think we called the upper pitch Rum Tug Tugger (?) just to keep it distinct from the much easier pitch below. When I led it I thought it was 5.12a, but I probably did it wrong, and you are working with some rather large jugs in the roof. Rob Pizem didn't shoot down the 5.12a grade but I would bet that if you asked him now he would agree with 5.11+. I did think that it was harder than 5.11c. |
By Chad Stebbins
May 14, 2002
| A good route. Suggest unclipping the second bolt after clipping the third to reduce rope drag (easy to reach), also use a longer draw on the third bolt. I thought it was closer to 11c though, perhaps a long reach helps. |
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 29, 2002
| This route has great moves and pro, I would say it's worthy of more than one star, but there is some loose rock and a suspect hold just below the fourth bolt. I would also agree that it is probably not 5.12. Very worth doing if you get tired of slopers on the slab below.... |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 1, 2002
| Seemed 11c when we put it in, but feed back from climbers suggested that 11c was a sand bag - 11+? |
By Bryson Slothower
Aug 8, 2002
| 11+ would seem about right to me but then again I'm tall and the hardest move seemed like the long reach over the roof.... |
By richard magill
Oct 21, 2002
rating: 5.11c
| Fun line!The big hold (i.e. 20 pounds of stone) near the fourth bolt is cracked clear through and is flexing a bit.I put an "X" on it. It can't possibly be removed on a weekend without threatening people at the base below.Someone may want to crowbar or reinforce this soon - it is a nasty accident waiting to happen. |
By Top Rope Hero
From: Estes Park
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.11b
| BELAYERS BRING A HELMET!
You're pretty much sitting right under the death zone should your leader kick off somma that chossy scree at the roof, as T-bone Tod Bol did Saturday last. Big chunk, too. Could'a killed. (Thanx, T-bone!)
Otherwise, a fucktastic route--my first ever 5.11 onsight. I got several key hip scrums that almost afforded no-hands rest, right through the roof magic. Plus the jugs (not to mention the sweet, right-where-ya-need-em clips) make for just a swell time. Call it 11b. (Though I could see it pushin' 12 if'n you didn't get the scrums.)
Still, for the initiate 11 climber lookin' for some spice, you could do little better, choss or not. AND you get to be the Cat Slab hero (or hound) since you're there in the spotlight, grunting for all the crag to see. Fantastic.
Oh, and the anchors are lookin' pretty rusted, though they seem to hold my fat 185lbs fine.... |
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