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Diff'rent Strokes Buttress
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Dana Plato Lives! T 
Diff'rent Strokes T 
Ornery Miss Garrett T 
Rule the World S 
Whats You Talkin' Bout Willis? T 

Rule the World 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Clay Watson, Dallen Ward
New Route: Yes
Season: supper, fall
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Adam W on the second ascent of To Rule the World.

Description 

Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.

The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.


Location 

Right of Mrs Garrett.


Protection 

Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.



Photos of Rule the World Slideshow Add Photo
Adam W
Adam W
Pfeifferhorn in the background
Pfeifferhorn in the background
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By tenesmus
Oct 15, 2008

The name is the last line of that stupid theme song from the TV series. A song Luke put in my head so I couldn't get it out.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Seriously good route. A must-do in this area.