Rule the World
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Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.
The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.
Right of Mrs Garrett.
Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.
Pfeifferhorn in the background
Adam W on the second ascent of To Rule the World.
Oct 15, 2008
The name is the last line of that stupid theme song from the TV series. A song Luke put in my head so I couldn't get it out.
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seriously good route. A must-do in this area.