Rule the World  5.11b/c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Clay Watson, Dallen Ward New Route:  Yes Season:  supper, fall Submitted By:  tenesmus on Oct 14, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Adam W on the second ascent of To Rule the World.

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Description 

Not a friction climb, this has actually has holds on it. This climbs the arete to the right of Mrs Garrett, using edges, jugs and rails on both sides. I like long moves on big holds.

The face directly in the bolt line without the arete feels like a completely different climb and is worth doing even if it is a little contrived. Getting into the dihedral and onto the face is one crux and the other is up on that face. It is letter grade harder and you want to preclip the second bolt on that arete as its a more difficult clip and you'll deck if you blow it.

Location 

Right of Mrs Garrett.

Protection 

Use the fixed pins and bolts leading to the Mrs Garrett dihedral. Then clip bolts (I think 11-12 total?) on the right side of the arete placed where the rock was the best.

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Adam W

Pfeifferhorn in the background