|The Barkeater Cliff
A great climb that offers a little bit of everything with a really good direct variation that provides a sustained quality independent line to the roof.
Original: Start as for Mr. Dirty and climb for 30' then traverse right at a crack below the roof to a small left-facing corner in the roof.
Direct: Start on top of the obvious large boulder resting at the base of the cliff below a bolt. Work up to the bolt and the finger crack and follow the finger crack to its end and another bolt. Traverse left across the face (crux) to the parallel-running crack and up (bolt) past easier terrain to the roof, work left to the small left-facing corner in the roof joining the original route.
From the small left-facing corner in the roof clip the bolt and move through on good holds to an awkward move to gain a pedastal with a 2" slot at chest height (2" cam useful). Work thin face climbing magic up to the bolt, step left 6' and up to a thin seam then left again to a good stance at a flake. Work up and right on fragile flakes to the fixed anchor (two bolts).
Start (Original): 30' to the right of Mr. Clean
Start (Direct): 50' to the right of Mr. Clean.
Descent: Rappel off the fixed anchor at the end of the climb.
Original: Small TCUs, double set of cames to .5" and a 2" cam, 3 bolts
Direct variation: Small cams to finger size, 6 bolts
|By Greg Kuchyt|
From: Richmond, VT
Sep 19, 2010
Perhaps I'm route-finding challenged but I had problems with the Lawyer-Haas description once you move past the 2" slot. The Lawyer-Haas description mentions moving left 6' from the bolt above the slot, but both my partner and I were unable to see how that would go. We did the route by moving straight up from the bolt to a good edge with bad feet and then working left to the stance at the flake. This felt plain hard and was surely harder than the proposed crux of pulling through the roof. I'm surely open to the idea that I simply missed something, but wanted to make note of it in case anyone finds themselves in my position.
|By Jim Lawyer|
Sep 20, 2010
For what it's worth, here's what I recorded word-for-word immediately after climbing the route. (I use a digital recorder to capture these details at the cliff while it's fresh and all the gear used in the route is in a pile.)
"Small TCUs, #2 Camalot critical, double yellow Alien, double green Alien, 1 red Alien, #0 TCU critical. ...There's a good horizontal below the roof. Make the clip, then move right and make a long reach to a bucket right of the bolt, then another really long reach to a good uncut bucket. Move right to a good ledge and a mail-slot (#2 Camalot). Up to a bolt, then move 6' left and up to a thin seam (#0 TCU). Move left to a good flake (green Alien), then up and right onto the face. Thin face and friable flakes lead to a fixed anchor."
Perhaps there's more than one way to get to the flake.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Apr 8, 2011
Did the direct start to this. There were at least 3, maybe 4 cruxes, all of which were challenging, and each was very different. This pitch packs in a variety of different types of climbing, and wanders quite a bit, but pretty much follows bolts the whole way. We went straight up to the roof first, and then figured out that we had to traverse left under the roof, and then up over it, and then traverse back right.