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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Ruins Crack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,688
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 27, 2004
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Laybacking up the finger crack: Ruins Crack

Access Note 

Do Not Climb



The BLM has requested that climbers no longer climb this route for archaeological preservation reasons.




Description 

One of the bigger sandbags at Indian Creek? Felt harder to me than most of the 5.11 thin hand corners at Battle of the Bulge.

1st route to the right of Jane Fondas, directly left of the "indian ruins". Steep tips liebacking off the deck, to wide fingers liebacking to get to a rest. A strenuous and pumpy 20 feet of climbing. Cop a decent rest then continue up the narrowing corner, until a tricky traverse right to gain a hand crack. Continue to the chains. The only way I can see justification for "10+" is the fact that its a little shorter than some of the other climbs at Battle of the Bulge. Total length of climb is 60-70 feet.


Protection 

Aliens: 2 green, 2 yellow. Friends: 4 #1, 1 #1.5, 1 #2. Camalots: 1 red and 1 yellow.


Do Not Climb



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By Lee Wilson
From: Cheyenne, WY
Mar 6, 2006

This is called "Ruins Crack" and is rated 5.11 in the Bloom guide. Great route with nice rests just where you need them.

By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 30, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

The first move off the ground is 5.11 tips, after that it's nice fingers. Super fun route.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 10, 2007

This climb is 5.11. With the tricky start and sustained climbing, there is no justification for a 5.10 grade (other than deliberate sandbagging). Great route though and there is rarely anyone on it.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2009

5.11 for sure. Edit (11/14/09)... damn I didn't know about the access issue when I got on this a few weeks back. I kinda feel like an ass for having climbed this now. I thought the Ruins reference was a joke since that little wind shelter is so recently maintained.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 10, 2009

Hey Gang
This is a pretty good climb. However, in a meeting with the Friends of Indian Creek and the American Alpine CLub, the BLM requested we stop climbing on it for archeological reasons. This is a valid request as the original ruins at the base were a granary. They have asked that we remove the anchors as well. As there are 10,000 other cracks in the area, lets just let this one be climberless.
Thanks
Sam

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
May 2, 2012

Crap. Accidentally climbed this the other day... didn't realize it was off limits. I don't recall the plaque for the Fremont Culture Dwelling mentioning the climb -- maybe it could be updated?

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 11, 2013

Euros cant read the guidebook, or our comments. Must pull the anchors or peeps will keep warming up on this one for Ruby's.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 12, 2013

All euros can read English... Put a plaque at the base.

By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Dec 12, 2013

There was a plaque. Someone chucked it. Pull the anchors.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 12, 2013

And watch people throw fits 120' off the deck before downclimbing? It will be amusing at least...
If someone is oblivious to the ruins I doubt they'll take the time to look up and realize there are no anchors. Bolt a sign to the granary.