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The Sports Wall
Routes Sorted
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Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 
Beginner Sports T,TR 
Changing Corners Dihedral T 
Coffin Crack T,TR 
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 
Generation Gap S 
Happiness of Pursuit S 
My Generation S 
Number 5 Crack T,TR 
Pet Semetary T,S 
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 
Slabtastic T,TR 

Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: rob bauer on Jul 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Here's where I went.

Raptor Closures / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another old trad route makes it onto MP! This is as good as Coffin Crack, IMHO, but different. It is not my route, but I did it today and judging from the list, this is RRV. There is an old #1 Friend hopelessly jammed deep in the crux near the top you get to work around. (The most frequently stuck size of those venerable cams.) Its rock quality is about the same as Coffin Crack. It may be 9+/10-, but let's see what the consensus says.

Location 

This is about 20 feet right of Coffin Crack. I went up the left-facing corner arete to the crack. (The more direct crack to the right was wet.)

Protection 

Trad gear, medium nuts and BD cams up to #3. Save a few finger sizes for the crux. I'd have liked maybe doubles to 0.5 to choose from, but we didn't have 'em. I anchored off the tree and equalized it with the #3 cam out left. It has a 3 minute walk-off.


Photos of Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: The crux dihedral.
Rock Climbing Photo: First half of the climb.
First half of the climb.

Comments on Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Nov 27, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is called "Climbing Sports" in the new guide by Kevin Capps and Matt Lloyd.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 18, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

At the crux, the crack is 0.4 Camalot-sized. I placed mine earlier and wish I would have had two of them at the crux.

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