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Rufus' Roof Variation T 

Rufus' Roof Variation 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: rob bauer on Jul 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Here's where I went.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another old trad route makes it onto MP! This is as good as Coffin Crack, IMHO, but different. It is not my route, but I did it today and judging from the list, this is RRV. There is an old #1 Friend hopelessly jammed deep in the crux near the top you get to work around. (The most frequently stuck size of those venerable cams.) Its rock quality is about the same as Coffin Crack. It may be 9+/10-, but let's see what the consensus says.

Location 

This is about 20 feet right of Coffin Crack. I went up the left-facing corner arete to the crack. (The more direct crack to the right was wet.)

Protection 

Trad gear, medium nuts and BD cams up to #3. Save a few finger sizes for the crux. I'd have liked maybe doubles to 0.5 to choose from, but we didn't have 'em. I anchored off the tree and equalized it with the #3 cam out left. It has a 3 minute walk-off.


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