Ruff Roof 5.11d
| 1,079 page views
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Jim Hone |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Jim Hone on Aug 1, 2001 |
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Setting up for the longer reach above the roof. Th...
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Description This route tackles the big roof. Scramble to the base, a short face leads to the roof. Pull the roof using the seam/crack. 5.9 territory the rest of the way. If you belay from the ground (recommended), a 60 metre rope barely gets you down!
Protection 10 bolts? 1/2" x 6" bolts, bomber home made hangers (you won't be able to tell), chain anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Taken from directly below the route on 5/19/02.
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The power crux on Ruff Roof. (Mine Hole Crag, Boca...
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Tony Bubb approaches a 'Ruff Roof (12a)' at Mine ...
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Tony Bubb at the 'Ruff Roof (12a)' of Mine Hole C...
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Glen with the OS. Photo by Jake.
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By Kreighton Bieger
May 19, 2002
| What a varied route! Steep slab climbing, slopers, crimps and a strenuous roof - all in 90 feet!
The scramble to the first bolt is fourth class, but beware of loose rock - my rope dislodged a pretty hefty place from the junk. This route is well bolted, pumpy and interesting all the way to the chains. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2006
rating: 5.12a
| I'll actually give this one 5.12a as a flash grade. The crux is pretty hard and not obvious. I ended up doing some pretty funky moves to get through it, not to mention power and reach. Check out the photo of the crux set-up.
Fun route. If you avoid going way left up top, then the route is NOT over after the roof.
A 60M rope just gets you to the ground. |
By Jim Hone
Jun 18, 2009
| Reachy?????? I'm 5'6" It can't be reachy! I tried to place the bolts so you would go right. If you can pull the ruff you don't want it to end there! |
By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Spoiler alert sort of-
Tape the second joint (DIP) of your right index finger and it'll be more fun. |
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