2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route tackles the big roof. Scramble to the base, a short face leads to the roof. Pull the roof using the seam/crack. 5.9 territory the rest of the way. If you belay from the ground (recommended), a 60 metre rope barely gets you down!
10 bolts? 1/2" x 6" bolts, bomber home made hangers (you won't be able to tell), chain anchors.
What a varied route! Steep slab climbing, slopers, crimps and a strenuous roof - all in 90 feet!
The scramble to the first bolt is fourth class, but beware of loose rock - my rope dislodged a pretty hefty place from the junk. This route is well bolted, pumpy and interesting all the way to the chains.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 14, 2006 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
I'll actually give this one 5.12a as a flash grade. The crux is pretty hard and not obvious. I ended up doing some pretty funky moves to get through it, not to mention power and reach. Check out the photo of the crux set-up.
Fun route. If you avoid going way left up top, then the route is NOT over after the roof.