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Rude Mood 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler, 1989
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Perhaps it is stretching to post three stars for Rude Mood, but this route is a personal favorite of mine.

A couple of hundred feet past the second drainage is a chocolate colored buttress that is carved out as something of an inset that is part of a left-facing corner system.

Start climbing in the slot on the right and try not to stem too much. There are good hands deep in the slot that allow you to move upwards without the stem, however, the stem is almost too logical to be avoided and it is a toss-up as to how much it affects the over-all grade. It is also highly rationale to bail out right on a ledge system at 30 feet for a complete rest. To keep up the continuity, avoid the rest. Tricky and fingery climbing puts you back on the face for 35 more feet of continuous edge climbing.

Fairness would drop a star for the possibility of steming off the ground and resting at mid point. Nonetheless, this route is too cool to lose any points - analogous to the beautiful coed begging for grades, who can refuse? You can cheapen the date a bit further by scrambling over the top to toss a TR on Dr. Duane on the adjacent left buttress. Three stars for the cool moves, thin and technical edging, continuity, good stone, and well reasoned pro.


Protection 

Seven or eight draws and a rope.



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By tim naylor
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Felt a little stout for .12a.

By tim naylor
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I would like some info on doa. pulled of about 6 holds getting to crux. doesn't seem like it had been climbed since first ascent, if ever. very sharp and hard crux

By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

I couldn't agree more with Tim's comments regarding DOA. I tried this thing about 6 years ago and felt the same way.

By NEH
Apr 3, 2011

Avoiding the holds in the slot, not using the stem, skipping the rest and sticking to the pocketed face down low makes for an excellent sustained 5.12 climb. Well worth it.