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Rude Femmes 

YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Alan Watts, October 21, 1988
Page Views: 968
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 1, 2006
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although it sees fewer ascents than Rude Boys with which it shares the crux and first 3 bolts, the rock is every bit as good. The 5.11 slab that constitutes the bulk of the climbing is nothing to sneeze at after the twin 5.13 cruxes at the start.


Location 

Shares the start with Rude Boys then heads up left after the 3rd bolt.


Protection 

Quickdraws



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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 29, 2006

Rumor has it this route has not been repeated since the FA. The section above the 5th bolt is very hard. I doubt very much that the '5.11 slab' is only 5.11.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 10, 2009

I know Mono's comment was years ago, but just thought I'd mention that I saw Ian doing this one at some point in '08.
He agreed that many ascents subsequent to the first are unlikely. It looked like a pretty awesome route.
I didn't know him all that well at the time, but having seen him climb a lot in the last couple years, and reflecting back to his efforts above the Rude Boys crux, I'd have to say that the slab may be .11 or easy .12, but the climbing between Rude Boys and the slab is probably not.

Proud, beautiful route. As soon as freaky run-out slab is no problem...

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2009

Ya, Ian (Caldwell) sent it and so did Tim (Garland). I think they did it last fall or so?