Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Catherine Finds An Edge S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Deep Splash S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Unknown 10c S 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

Rude Boys 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86
Season: a
Page Views: 7,160
Submitted By: ---- on Mar 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
The classic "Rose Move" on Rude Boys.

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V5/6) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dynamic redpoint crux (V4) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.

Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.

Location 

This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.

Protection 

Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.

Bolted Anchors.


Photos of Rude Boys Slideshow Add Photo
Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.
Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.
Brian prepping for the upper section.
Brian prepping for the upper section.

Comments on Rude Boys Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 12, 2006

I spent some time climbing on, and falling off of this route. The thin technical crux of the route comes at the first bolt (V5 or 6). After that, better holds traverse right to the second crux, passing the third bolt (V4) with some lunges.

On my first attempt at the route, I did all the moves on the lower section and said to my belayer: "Yeah, I'll just run up the final slab." I proceded to get completely destroyed. I found myself fifteen feet run out, staring at the next bolt with no way to clip it. Then it started raining. After a desperation lunge to a sloper, my feet peeled and I was off...I took a 25 footer and ended up at the first bolt. The moral: do not underestimate the slab.
By Philip Scoles
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Nov 14, 2006

Ok, thanks much. I got the beta from Ian and I think I will be able to do it before this up-coming summer.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 28, 2013

The first onsight of Rude Boys was by Francois Lombard in 1993.
By tom donnelly
Aug 17, 2014

I watched Chris Knuth climbed it years ago, a couple days before he did To Bolt.
He wasn't expecting to get the rose move, but after he did, he decided to keep going to the top, despite having only about one more draw for the remaining bolts. He had one old biner used to carry a toothbrush, then skipped at least one bolt. Getting to the top, he put his leg through the fixed sling there, untied, and lowered down.