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The Wasteland
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Automatic Leg Spreader 
Beast, The 
Believe It 
Community Service 
Guilt Parade 
Gun Shy 
Java Creek 
Lady Luck 
Never Believe 
Popular Demand 
Slacker Direct 
Vision Thing 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman / Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Sep 1, 2001
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Jerad on Ruckus.

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Two lines to the left of Never Believe, this short route packs a powerful punch. Climb the overhanging right facing dihedral, then move up left and up to the ledge to the anchors. The crux revolves around a thin, funky move that gives many people trouble. Good footwork is the key here. The rest of the route is enjoyable overhanging climbing, but quite short.


5 bolts, two bolt anchor.

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Jerad Friedrichs on Ruckus.
Jerad Friedrichs on Ruckus.
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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 14, 2004

Can't get dropknee or fingers in holds at start. Seems harder than 12b if over 6'. Rest of route fun .11-

By Kipp Schorr
Sep 22, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Anonymous Coward, Try a kneebar with the right leg in the big hole and left hand to a little crimp thing, then up into the crappy holds of the route. Seen it work wonders for tall people. Cheers.

By Adri.n Robert
From: boulder, co
Jun 5, 2006

Knee bar over the first bulge after the crimps works sweet for clipping. I loved having to mantle the second bulge to reach the anchors.. very bouldery.