Ruby's Cafe 5.13-
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| Type: | Trad, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c/d [details] |
| FA: | Lisa Gnade |
| Submitted By: | m-earle on Mar 19, 2007 |
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Rich pullin out of the switching corners crux
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Description A thin start leads to changing corners, which puts you under an intimidating roof. A series of badass moves sets you up for thin laybacking to the anchors. Very sustained!
Location This incredible line lies inbetween "The Last Battle," and Digital Readout.
Protection 6 or so yellow Aliens, a few green.
A most elegant line.
| Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch
| Daunting...
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By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 11, 2007
| For those of you who know (and hopefully love) the colorful desert hermit/IC climber extraordinaire Alf Randell, or "Alf", you will appreciate this vignette: Apparently, Alf had done this climb in the dark past with stoppers and tri-cams. Think 1970s. Think bad-ass. And think of my friend, Herb Crimp, a burly climber in his own right, but a modern child weaned on SLCDs and sticky rubber. Touting the more illustrious ascent, Alf guilt-tripped Herb into leading this route. Herb flailed, but flailed respectively, eventually gaining the anchors. Upon lowering, Herb complained, "just because Alf leads something in 1975 with stoppers and tri-cams doesn't mean I have to lead it." Wise words. You had to be there. |
By alf Jan 8, 2009
| I first tried rubies when friend 1-4 with no half sizes were available. I took one fall at the crux during my lead attempt, and top-roped it with no trouble [around 1980]. I am pleased by the solid grains of truth to be had from the comments i have read here. Thank you all for your fairness and kindness! |
By Jay Samuelson From: Denver CO Mar 31, 2010
| what a sweet route! I aided the line to put up a toprope and give it a go....barely missed the upper crux my first go! Much more managable than i imagined it would be, and so much fun locking in the knee-bar up high! A classic for sure. |
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