Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Nebel Horn Ridge
Patagonia Women's Barely Wireless Bra

$39.00 50% off

$19.50

at Patagonia

55    more...
Joker Velcro - 8.5

$98.95 29% off

$69.27

at CampSaver

7    more...
Patagonia Boys' Down Jacket

$139.00 50% off

$69.50

at Patagonia

42    more...
MSR Sweetwater Purifier System

$99.99 30% off

$69.99

at AlsSports

3    more...
Banshee Shoe

$74.95 33% off

$50.00

at WildernessX

874    more...
Sugoi RS Tri Short - Women's

$74.99 49% off

$37.95

at AlsSports

2    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Space Invaders" to "Shot" 
Death Block Chimney 
False Gods, Real Men 
Grand Theft Auto? 
Jennifer's Crack 
Nebel End 
Nebel Via 
One In The Chamber 
Over The Rainbow 
Rads For Rookies 
Rainbow Bridge 
Ruby Slipper 
Scarecrow 
Violator 

Ruby Slipper 

5.11c

   
708 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
FA: Jeff Achey and Bill Bradley, 1981
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Erik Goukas on Ruby Slipper: photot: Bob Horan Col...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I was tempted to say this would be three stars if it were longer, but it's so action-packed, and unique for the area, that it seems worthy of three stars even though the real climbing is only 40-45 feet. Ruby Slipper is a continuous RP to small-wire crack through a steep slab. Several cruxes, thought-provoking protection and a great line make this a classic, despite an arduous approach. Leading it requires patience and the ability to hang out on small footholds while fiddling in RPs, and there are a couple of loose flakes to worry about. But there is plenty of gear if you work at it, and the climbing is excellent. Be careful of the mounds of loose rock on the belay ledge at the top.


Protection 

Good pro for the patient, knowledgeable leader.



Comments on Ruby Slipper Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2007
rating: 5.11 PG13

Not a route to max out on. The gear may take some fiddling in, and the flake is fragile in places. The true crux is 2/3 of the way up in thin feet land.
Small strong fingers and a long reach help, the converse would hurt. The grade on this one is very subjective. I've got all three mitigating attributes going for me so it felt easier that 11c, but I can imagine that lacking long arms or having anything other than my pencil-tipped fingers would have increased the difficulty some.

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
May 1, 2008

FA Jeff Achey and Bill Hoadley. Bill Bradley was a basketball player.