|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Jeff Achey and Bill Bradley, 1981|
|Submitted By:||Dougald MacDonald on Oct 6, 2002|
|Comments on Ruby Slipper||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Not a route to max out on. The gear may take some fiddling in, and the flake is fragile in places. The true crux is 2/3 of the way up in thin feet land.
Small strong fingers and a long reach help, the converse would hurt. The grade on this one is very subjective. I've got all three mitigating attributes going for me so it felt easier that 11c, but I can imagine that lacking long arms or having anything other than my pencil-tipped fingers would have increased the difficulty some.
By Aeon Aki
May 1, 2008
|FA Jeff Achey and Bill Hoadley. Bill Bradley was a basketball player.|