Ruby Slipper 5.11c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Achey and Bill Bradley, 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Dougald MacDonald on Oct 6, 2002 |
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Erik Goukas on Ruby Slipper: photot: Bob Horan Col...
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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Flatirons Climbing CouncilPreserving climbing access in the Flatirons
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Description I was tempted to say this would be three stars if it were longer, but it's so action-packed, and unique for the area, that it seems worthy of three stars even though the real climbing is only 40-45 feet. Ruby Slipper is a continuous RP to small-wire crack through a steep slab. Several cruxes, thought-provoking protection and a great line make this a classic, despite an arduous approach. Leading it requires patience and the ability to hang out on small footholds while fiddling in RPs, and there are a couple of loose flakes to worry about. But there is plenty of gear if you work at it, and the climbing is excellent. Be careful of the mounds of loose rock on the belay ledge at the top.
Protection Good pro for the patient, knowledgeable leader.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Sep 16, 2007 rating: 5.11 PG13
| Not a route to max out on. The gear may take some fiddling in, and the flake is fragile in places. The true crux is 2/3 of the way up in thin feet land. Small strong fingers and a long reach help, the converse would hurt. The grade on this one is very subjective. I've got all three mitigating attributes going for me so it felt easier that 11c, but I can imagine that lacking long arms or having anything other than my pencil-tipped fingers would have increased the difficulty some. |
By Aeon Aki Administrator May 1, 2008
| FA Jeff Achey and Bill Hoadley. Bill Bradley was a basketball player. |
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