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Festoon T 
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Toto T 

Ruby Shoes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Staheli
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Adrienne Kentner following P2 of Ruby Shoes 5.7

Description 

A fun and easy route just uphill and left around the corner from Toto (5.10). Follows the shallow right-facing dihedral system starting in an area of white colored rock. An obvious 2' square roof can be seen just to the left of the line at about the 100' mark, and is a good visual for locating the climb. Two short pitches or can be linked into one full 60M pitch. Mostly easy 5th class with a few moves of 5.6-5.7. Bolted rap anchors exist on both P1 and P2. An optional 40' third pitch (4th class vegetation climbing) allows for linking this into the upper 3 pitches of Toto.

Protection 

A few lead bolts (5/16") plus a single rack to 3" should be plenty for this route. Rappel with a single rope from atop P2, or do the optional third pitch and walkoff, or rappel Toto.

As of July 5th, 2014. The first anchor on this was replaced with a new ASCA anchor.


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By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 9, 2014

From the second anchor on this you can just make it to the anchor below the fourth pitch on toto without too much rope drag if you have a 70m rope.