|d. Strictly - Shockley's
1. Climb to a small ledge. Move up until you can grab a small, left facing flake (crux) that is at the base of a short, left facing corner. Belay about 30-40 feet higher at a decent stance. There are some obvious, right-facing flakes immediately above this point. 5.10a, 80 feet.
2. Go up and left from the belay, trend back right a bit (you should be more or less directly above your belayer at that point), and blast over a bulge on good holds (crux). Move up and left to a fixed pin, climb past that (second crux), then head slightly right to the GT ledge. 5.9+, 90 feet.
Traverse to climbers' right and descend via the bolted line next to Three Pines.
About 30 or 40 feet left of the start of Three Pines; look for a clean section of rock and vertical seam a short distance off the deck.
Standard 'Gunks rack
Nov 7, 2011
It's a fun route. The second pitch climbing was even more fun than the first pitch climbing. Just a few bigger moves on some great overhanging holds.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
10a? Funny that this and neighboring Nemesis get the same grade in grey Dick. Thought the crux of this climb was an easy stand up on great feet with good protection.
|By Eugene Kwan|
Jun 3, 2014
Agreed. Easier than Nemesis. But a great climb nonetheless! Did some unknown third pitch at the top that was poorly protected, hard for "5.8," and fun. Not really sure what it was, but it started by traversing right and then back left with some overhangs.
|By Michael Schneider|
Jun 25, 2014
Another one of my "variations" that has a full line that crosses the others, much closer to 5.10 than .9, gear where you need it.