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The guide book describes this route as twin cracks to splitter offwidth but the offwidth is flaring, not splitter. Either way the route is fun if your into offwidths, but may be a little sandy since it doesn't get climbed much.
This route is located to the left of Bunny Slope and about 15' right of the large dihedral. There is a two bolt anchor at the top with slings.
#1 to #4.5 Camalots.
BETA PHOTO: The lower ow sections
BETA PHOTO: Sweet
|By Dave Stewart|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2008
I'd give this climb a mid 11 rating. More b than a for sure. Every route at the creek is 4 stars. It does throw everything at you: OW, fingers, thin hands, big hands, etc. 60 m rope just gets you down.
|By Mike Willig|
Sep 23, 2008
Here's my beta on this sweet climb....
The climb starts out with a 35ft. off-width section. There is a finger crack parallel to the offwidth that adds some help. Follow the line into hands/fists and then into the crux(in my opinion)bulging finger crack. Just past this you'll get a nice rest and then head into a beautiful splitter crack that goes from thin hands to hands. The end of this route is beautiful. Once at the top, you can actually see through to the other side of the crack that you've been jamming. A little spooky, but definitely worth it!
Located a few hundred feet to the left of Bunny Slope...it's the obvious crack on a massive right facing dihedral
Camalots - (1)#.5, (2)#.75, (2)#1, (2)#2, (4)old #3.5 or new #4, (2)old #4, (1)new #5. Use a runner where the crack transitions from o/w to fist crack.