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Ruby Flame 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Josh Gross
Page Views: 1,046
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Nov 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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beginning chimney/offwidth heel toeing

Description 

The guide book describes this route as twin cracks to splitter offwidth but the offwidth is flaring, not splitter. Either way the route is fun if your into offwidths, but may be a little sandy since it doesn't get climbed much.

Location 

This route is located to the left of Bunny Slope and about 15' right of the large dihedral. There is a two bolt anchor at the top with slings.

Protection 

#1 to #4.5 Camalots.


Photos of Ruby Flame Slideshow Add Photo
The lower ow sections
BETA PHOTO: The lower ow sections
At the anchor...
BETA PHOTO: At the anchor...
Sweet
BETA PHOTO: Sweet
nick pushing through
nick pushing through

Comments on Ruby Flame Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 7, 2007

Cool Thanks!
By Dave Stewart
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2008

I'd give this climb a mid 11 rating. More b than a for sure. Every route at the creek is 4 stars. It does throw everything at you: OW, fingers, thin hands, big hands, etc. 60 m rope just gets you down.
By Mike Willig
Sep 23, 2008

Here's my beta on this sweet climb....

The climb starts out with a 35ft. off-width section. There is a finger crack parallel to the offwidth that adds some help. Follow the line into hands/fists and then into the crux(in my opinion)bulging finger crack. Just past this you'll get a nice rest and then head into a beautiful splitter crack that goes from thin hands to hands. The end of this route is beautiful. Once at the top, you can actually see through to the other side of the crack that you've been jamming. A little spooky, but definitely worth it!

Located a few hundred feet to the left of Bunny Slope...it's the obvious crack on a massive right facing dihedral

Camalots - (1)#.5, (2)#.75, (2)#1, (2)#2, (4)old #3.5 or new #4, (2)old #4, (1)new #5. Use a runner where the crack transitions from o/w to fist crack.
By coldfinger
Mar 10, 2013

FA Josh Gross---really?