Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau (B)
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Stand V8: Work up the right facing off-set till you can reach out left to a good edge. Bring the right up to a sloping dish and jump for the pointed jug in the crack, or match the edge and cross left up to a crimp gaston on the side of the sloping dish, then with your right foot high pull up to the pointed jug. Continue up the crack till you can traverse right and work your way down.
Meine Gummi Frau V10: Start almost laying down on some slopers on the back wall. Move out to a rail that slants up and left, then out left to a pocket. Set your feet and make a long move to a hueco, pretty difficult. Heal hook by your left hand and reach out to the off-set. Plant your feet and fall into the off-set with your right, crux. Though the jump move is still quite difficult and one would expect to come off there at least once after getting through the lower bit.
Climbs the right facing off-set that comes out of the middle of cave starting at about shoulder height, or start lower under a low roof and climb up and left into the off-set for the SDS.
Pads and spotter, the traverse off and down climb are pretty dicey.
|Photos of Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau (B) Slideshow
Lance starting up the problem
Lance working on getting his feet to stick so he c...
Lance jumping to the spike/jug that marks the end ...
|Comments on Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau (B)
|By Bob Broilo|
From: Socorro, NM
Dec 28, 2009
rating: V7 7a+
Yes, Jake was FA. SDS is called Meine Gummi Frau. From the bouldering guide:
"Originally envisioned by Peck, Jake's sucessful first ascent put the spurs to Peck, and anger fueled Peck's immediate second ascent a few minutes later."
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 5, 2011
The hard line to the right of Meine Gummi Frau is know as Vulgar Display of Power and as far as I know it's still a project.