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Rubber Crack Gloves
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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Feb 15, 2013
Top of Castleton

I'm trying to get a couple people into crack climbing and at my gym the only damn crack they have is one size which for a girl is big hands. Thinking to get some fatter gloves for her to use.

What do you suggest?

Would the Metolius leather big wall gloves work?


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 15, 2013
OTL

coop wrote:
post up the pricing when you hear, they need to be durable at $50! I need a large


$38.50 plus $8 shipping (signature required they said). You shouldn't have tax being shipped out of state.

Think I'll pass at that price. (unless you give a resounding review - update us if you buy them)

If you want to buy, email Carolyn@planetgranite.com for purchase from PG.


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By trese
From Boulder and Innsbruck, Austria
Feb 15, 2013
Tyrol

I use those gloves and I can ask my relatives to ship me some from Austria (they are 25Euros+shipping)
PM me if interested.


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By Patrick Mulligan
Feb 15, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma

Matt N wrote:
$38.50 plus $8 shipping (signature required they said). You shouldn't have tax being shipped out of state. Think I'll pass at that price. (unless you give a resounding review - update us if you buy them) If you want to buy, email Carolyn@planetgranite.com for purchase from PG.


I've been listening to folks complain about the whole aid thing forever. Unless you're climbing chalkless without shoes, stfu. If you're climbing chalkless without shoes, well then I simply don't share your hard core ethic.

Here's a reveiw for the gloves:

I used the gloves last year for 2/3 season and put some good mileage on them. They held up well, althought I'll have to put some new velcro (soft side) on them this year as that took a beating and as it became fuzzy stopped sticking so well. At the end of the season that was dealt with by a single wrap of tape around the back of the glove. They're very thin. While the backing of the glove is rubber, its nowhere near as sticky as climbing shoes. I don't know what Ocun says about this, but it looks like the rubber was chosen for wear rather than friction. I don't beleive the glove is any better or stickier than tape. In fact I think for tight hands tape could even be better.

Here is why I like the gloves over tape: prior to getting the gloves mid July I went through something like 4 or 5 roles of tape. This is both expensive and wasteful. I even reused some of the tape as long as it was still sticky and working. I've used almost no tape since purchase of the gloves. When climbing in Red Rock or Eldo or areas where there are a lot climbs that have pitches of both face and crack you can choose the pitches on which you'll use the gloves - on for crack's where needed and off for face. You can also remove the gloves at the end of every pitch, which allows someone like me to comfortably use gloves for belaying and descending.

I've seen hand jammies and some of the other "crack gloves" and these are by far superior. While not for everyone, they work and I believe worth the price.


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By ErikTurner
From Seattle
Mar 6, 2013

saw some folks with these out this past weekend.... tried them on but blanked on what size they had. anyone have them and mind putting up what size they have and a measurement of their hand? (circumfrence at knuckles, and palm height ?)

thanks

Erik


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By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

CaptainMo wrote:
Spider mitts?


F'n cool bro! Love them! I want a pair! TOO FUNNY! Bet KIDS would LOVE them!


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By Unassigned User
Mar 6, 2013

I ripped the living shit out of MY hands last year when a fellow climber rigged a rap shitty and had to bail fast as the weather was pouring. Still have scars all over my hand. Not the end of the woirld of course - but as a RN - I 'wok with my hands' and tape up noe for all climbs! Screw that shite!


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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Mar 21, 2013

i used some leftover stealth paint i have to patch my shoes over a pair of carefully constructed tape gloves (just used a single layer of barely overlaping tape) and they are the bomb. i could probably make 10 pairs from a $20 carton of stealth paint.


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By Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Aug 10, 2013
Beagle

brand new OCUN crack gloves for sale...

mountainproject.com/v/fs-brand-new-ocun-crack-gloves/1082831>>>


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By bargainhunter
Aug 11, 2013

Bryan, just sent you a PM to buy the gloves.


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By bearbreeder
Sep 25, 2013

folks the clymb has climbx crack gloves on sale for 7 smackaroos in S/M

www.theclymb.com/all/brand-event/379271/show-product/554956?>>>


crack gloves clymb
crack gloves clymb


we just group ordered a few pairs

;)


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By Woodchuck ATC
Sep 25, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

what glove is that? I think it's OJ's gloves !! Found!..and they fit.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 25, 2013
...

Gloves are for pussies!

...
...


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By Ed Wright
Sep 25, 2013
Magic Ed

Locker wrote:
Gloves are for pussies!


So are climbing shoes!


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By Bliss
From Vancouver, British Columbia
Jun 6, 2014

You can purchase Ocun Crack Gloves from ---->

blicard.com/collections/crack-climbing/products/crack-gloves

$35 USD

  • full disclosure I'm the co-owner of Blicard.com. Many of you seem to be looking for these. Hope this helps.


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By therockbiter
From San Jose
Jun 20, 2014
Sonora Pass

I just bought a pair for me and my wife. Eventually you get to the age when you JDGAF what others think. Im no pro or ever will be. On the subject of cheating....

Im sure that someone said that about

cars VS horse and buggy

stone tablets VS papyrus

flip phones VS smart phones

computers VS the library

EB's.... Crashpads... harnesses with leg loops... Bolted Routes... Rap bolting

pre-placed draws and gear EG: El cap, anything 5.13 and harder. ect......

I guarantee in another 7 years these gloves will be standard just like all the above has become.
Early adopters be proud... We have always endured criticism for being one step ahead. :)


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Jun 20, 2014
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

Locker wrote:
Gloves are for pussies!


Not if you work with body fluids, infected liquids, clean poop from a bed ridden person, constantly give head to toe bed baths and touch various other disgusting things with your hands that can easily infect skin tears and flappers.

It also stings like a bitch constantly using alcohol sanitizer with all the tears I have.


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By nicelegs
From Denver
Jun 20, 2014

therockbiter wrote:
... I guarantee in another 7 years these gloves will be standard just like all the above has become. Early adopters be proud... We have always endured criticism for being one step ahead. :)


There has been a version of these out and readily available since at least 1995. They haven't become standard yet and they won't.

The reality of these gloves is that they handicap your climbing. If you can do it with a hand jammie, it would have been easier with tape or even barehanded if you know how to jam. There are a handful of gnarly cracks that they would be nice on, hence the single pitch of multipitch route comments. They are not required though.

If a reusable, sensitive, durable, glove that doesn't ruin tight hands comes out, it would become standard soon enough. Right now that product grows on your hands and gets worse after each "harvest".


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By therockbiter
From San Jose
Jun 20, 2014
Sonora Pass

I see your point and only time will tell weather they will catch on. Most humans are submissive to community pressure then again maybe they will suck. Im not much of a crack climber. Living in San Jose, CA i boulder most the time and face climb. I just want protection without having to make tape gloves. I just bought them and am going to try them out in Lake Tahoe on Thursday. Ive done several hands to wide cracks in Yosemite with tape gloves and they worked fine just want to try something new. Note: they are not any thicker than the tape gloves i have used used in the past. Ill see whats up an post an objective report. :)


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By ze_dirtbag
From TBD
Jun 20, 2014
cottonmouth

i used hand jammies for the first time this spring. they shine on alpine routes with wet cracks.

i can see both sides of the argument, yeah they're sticky and give an advantage. i don't use them for cragging or on hard(for me) cracks. they're bulky for thin hands and i like to think my jams are pretty damn solid. however, wet/icy granite can be a bitch. i'd rather climb fast and have someone talk shit than lose my weather window and get wet/cold/turn into a lightning rod.

end of the day, they're gear. use them when you need to. healthy hands are a big deal on multiple day routes.


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By bearbreeder
Jun 20, 2014

sarah hart using ocun crack gloves ... at 19 seconds in the vid



kate rutherford using ocun crack gloves



josh wharton using ocun crack gloves



i suspect these folks know how to jam just as well, or more likely better than most MPers

;)


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By nicelegs
From Denver
Jun 20, 2014

Bearbreeder,

You are turning this into another Mythos thread.

Just because some climber you don't know but can google climbs stuff that is physically easier to them than wiping does not prove the case that these conveinience, not performance, aids do anything at all. (I have pride in my run on sentences).

I ran into Kate Rutherford skinny dipping in Greenland. She didn't have anything on her hands at the moment.

I think of all the cracks between mid 12 and 13 I've personally climbed, and only one did I use tape. Handjammies would have probably worked just as well on that beast too FWIW. I feel like you're forgetting that 90% of the pos(t)ers here are interested in how they would work on the perfect hands 5.9. They'd work as well there as bowling shoes, boxing gloves, or roller skates. Seriously, is there anything you can do to actually handicap yourself on a perfect hand crack? I doubt it.

I suspect if it weren't for little women and n00bs, BD wouldn't be able to sell #2 cams.


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By bearbreeder
Jun 20, 2014

Boxing gloves, bowling shoes, only women and noobs use #2 camalots?

Oh my !!! What an elitist attitude there =P

Im mot sure how folks, including some pretty good ones, using hand jammies gets you so riled up

Whether folks use em or not .... Or wear mythos for that matter ... Is their choice

Not quite sure how it affects your climbing

Theres a reason why they wear em and why they sell ... And why folks will pay a good price for the ocun ones

;)


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By nicelegs
From Denver
Jun 20, 2014

bearbreeder wrote:
Boxing gloves, bowling shoes, only women and noobs use #2 camalots? Oh my !!!


Correct. If you can't fall asleep on #2 camalot sized crack, you are doing it wrong.

BTW, I'm not riled up. I said in my initial post on this subject that if there was a good glove out there (I don't believe the Ocun is) that it would be standard equipment quickly. That includes my rack. Why wouldn't it?

As long as I bring my shoes and rope and chalk and tape and cams and nuts and draws and sometimes drill, I don't have a problem adding jammies to the list. So far though, I see little reason to.

As for my personal vendetta against mythos (my words, and true), I don't know why I hate them so much. Sure they suck but lots of things suck. Maybe it was that priest wearing mythos I encountered as an altar boy...


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By bearbreeder
Jun 20, 2014

Theres a crack or two here where most of us mortals wont fall asleep on which take numbah tooooos

Perhaps you recommend we start soloing em just like u =P

As to ocuns .... Its not like anyone here is sponsored by ocun

Yet quite a few MPers have stated thei preference for em

Just cause u dun like em doesnt mean they ....


;)


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