I'll be visiting family in Lexington on Memorial Day weekend. My sainted wife, hallowed be her name, has granted me one blessed day of freedom to go climbing. I can go either Saturday or Sunday, whichever has better conditions.
My preference is for easy trad and I have a full rack. I'm also open to climbing sport up to the mid 10s. If I had my choice I'd go up to Long Wall to do Autumn and Rock Wars.
If you're looking for easy trad you'll need to go to the New River Gorge. It's just better for what you want in my opinion. You can get on Ritz Cracker, Fantasy, the whole Junkyard and Bridge areas. You'll be able to get on ultra classics the whole way. Not sure if the red has the stars in that style. Maybe it does, but if you gotta go to the Red don't be afraid to get on bolts.
@Colin Smith: I'm familiar with the Red and the New and I have to disagree completely. I think the moderate trad at the Red is more plentiful. Also, I don't have a choice of where to go this weekend. As I said, I'm visiting family in Lexington and sneaking out for a day.
Also, just to reiterate: If you're reading this and you want a partner for sport up to the mid 10s, I'm game. Beggars can't be choosers, or so I'm told.
David, I might be your huckleberry. I will be visiting some family in Louisville that weekend and would like to climb a day as well. I don't really care what/where. You can send me a pm and we can coordinate off line. Thanks.
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