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Apr 6, 2012
Hi all:
Heading to the Red next week (all weekdays) for the first time. Any any favorite sport routes at the 5.10 grade that I should add to my list? Easier 11's would also be of interest, or even sub-10 megaclassics I shouldn't miss.

Food recommendations also welcome (besides Miguel's, that one I've heard of!).

Thanks,
David
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
244 points
Apr 6, 2012
Breakfast Burrito, 10c (or d)

Air ride equipped 11a
johnthethird
Joined Jan 6, 2012
13 points
Apr 6, 2012
View from the Jane Spy belay station
The Gallery has some great moderates, including


A Brief History of Climb
27 Years of Climbing

Edit: Also, Tectonic wall has one of my favorite climbs ever, along with some great easy climbing:

Gettin Lucky in Kentucky
Kurt Swanson
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Mar 2, 2010
147 points
Apr 6, 2012
Breakfast burrito and its neighbor, fire and brimstone, are probably two of the best 5.10s I have done anywhere. Fire is a little more cryptic and the crux is down low. Breakfast burrito has a perfect crimping section to a huge rest and then a perfect exposed boulder problem. Do both of these climbs.


Also, Whip Stocking. Same cliff. No hard moves, just classic Red pump.

Get psyched, the Red is the best climbing I've done in the US (been to RMNP, Joe's, Bishop, Rumney....) and primarily a boulderer. The rock is beautiful and perfect.

Food is tough; there is a horrible grocery kinda close (Sav a lot) but there is a Kroger in Winchester (I think it's winchester).
Zane Dordai
Joined Feb 21, 2011
94 points
Administrator
Apr 6, 2012
El Chorro
I thought all of the 10's at whichever wall Breakfast BUrrito is on were really good. BB was the first route I did in a month long trip to the Red and it stood up to most of the other routes, even harder ones.

There is a soft 11a, long and sustained with kind of a cave rest at the midpoint. That is also at the same wall, and is very good. Fuzzy Undercling is another soft 11, but the boulder problem start is kinda tough. God it's been years since I've been to the Red...

THere is also a classic 9 called Plate Techtonics or something like that... but there will be a conga line, even on a week day.

Oh yea, the trad climbing is just as good as the sport.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points
Apr 6, 2012
Leading up Eat Yourself A Pie 5.8+ at Barkeater in...
Sunnyside at Muir Valley has a few good ones, and they all stay dry in the rain. Even Bruise Brothers has a few on the right side of the crag that are longer than all the rest of the routes, and they are super fun. Have a great time! Drake Pregnall
From Boulder, CO
Joined Dec 23, 2011
1,072 points
Apr 6, 2012
CroMagnon
Went there for the first time myself a week ago. Here are a few 10's we really enjoyed.

Loompa 10c at the chocolate factory. Pretty powerful and harder than the many other 10's but steep and fun.

Creep Show 10d at phantasia wall. Another powerful 10 with some good variety going from steep to balancy.

Boltergeist 10b at Hideout in Muir Valley. Chill slab climbing that goes on forever...
I didn't get a chance to get on the ones already recommended other than air ride equipped which is a great jug hall but these ones were very enjoyable and worth doing if you end up at these crags.

As for food: I recommend the Rockhouse Cafe up the road a few miles past Miguel's. Good food, good beer and super nice people running it.
tscupp
From Cincinnati, OH
Joined May 18, 2007
1,175 points
Apr 6, 2012
If you have time during the week (wouldnt recommend it in a weekend), you can go to The Shire. Easy short warmups (which are noob-raped on weekends), then you climb G-Man (10c) and KSB (10d). G-Man has some slopers and makes you think and desperately search for holds, and KSB is a blank wall except for iron crimpers and slots. Once you've bagged those, head a little further into the valley and get on Amarillo Sunset (11b). Awesomely juggy with nice exposure. Craig T
From Chicago, IL
Joined Apr 19, 2010
8 points
Apr 6, 2012
tscupp wrote:
Boltergeist 10b at Hideout in Muir Valley. Chill slab climbing that goes on forever...


Meh boltergeist isnt that great, especially because everybody and their brother thinks its the best route in the Red and is perpetually packed. I think thrillbillies which is also 10b slab is a MUCH better route, more continuous, better moves, and not gang banged by gumbies all day!

Other good tens check out the gallery wall, bruise brothers, great wall, hideout, techtonic, the shire, the playground etc etc... Just look through the book, they are everywhere!
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
Apr 6, 2012
Zane Dordai wrote:
Breakfast burrito has a perfect crimping section to a huge rest and then a perfect exposed boulder problem.


Haha crimps on Breakfast Burrito before the sit down rest? I think you were climbing it wrong, that whole route is jugs. I don't think I used any crimps on that route...
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
Apr 6, 2012
Thanks a lot to everyone for the great beta. Really psyched to put it to good use in a few days!
Cheers,
David
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
244 points
Apr 7, 2012
In Las Viñas, Lima, Perú
Sounds like you climb harder than I do, but I loved to Defy the Laws of Tradition, 5.10a. It's at Left Flank, which is relatively close to Military Wall, where Fuzzy Undercling is. It took us about 20 minutes to walk to one from the other, so it would be easy to do both in the same day.

I also quite enjoyed the three climbs on the Tectonic wall, Gettin' Lucky, which was previously mentioned, Plate Tectonics, and a 10c that's also on the same wall.
ErikaE
Joined Dec 20, 2010
6 points
Apr 7, 2012
Erika-at-Olin wrote:
Sounds like you climb harder than I do, but I loved to Defy the Laws of Tradition, 5.10a. It's at Left Flank, which is relatively close to Military Wall, where Fuzzy Undercling is. It took us about 20 minutes to walk to one from the other, so it would be easy to do both in the same day. I also quite enjoyed the three climbs on the Tectonic wall, Gettin' Lucky, which was previously mentioned, Plate Tectonics, and a 10c that's also on the same wall.


Hi Erika,
Nope I don't think you climb harder than I do: I'm just hoping that at the Red, courtesy of those nice new bolts, I can climb harder than I do! Thanks for the recommendations!
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
244 points
Apr 9, 2012
For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad. SteveBSU
From Muncie, IN
Joined Nov 6, 2011
12 points
Apr 9, 2012
SteveBSU wrote:
For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.


Wow worst recommendations ever. Did you read the guys post? He is looking for sport routes around 5.10

Bob Marley, Purgatory, fortress, tower rock and pebble beach would all be poor suggestions for him.
DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Mar 23, 2012
3 points
Apr 9, 2012
chimney
machete on sunnyside in muir Cocanower
From The High Country
Joined Jan 24, 2012
70 points
Apr 10, 2012
Just as others have said, at Drive-by - Breakfast Burrito, Fire & Brimstone, Whipstockig. Also the 5.10's at Great Wall in Muir, then on the other side of the trail, Air Ride Equipped and Bathtub Mary.
Also at Muir, the 5.11a on the right side of the Bib Wall (sorry, the name escapes me for the moment).

Check out Rock House; slightly pricier compared to Miguel's but RH has beer on tap.
S. Neoh
Joined Oct 4, 2009
481 points
Apr 10, 2012
SteveBSU wrote:
For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.

The road out to the Gallery parking lot was passable by a standard-clearance car (minivan, actually!) today. Wouldn't have wanted to try it in the rain without 4wd, though, and the road wouldn't have had to get much worse before it would have caused us clearance problems also.
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
244 points
Apr 12, 2012
IDK
Wasn't Military closed, im not posotive on this so if it is open I'm sorry for the mix up. If your in Muir be sure to donate or else you may have another Roadside that is just something nice to look at. mustardtiger
Joined Oct 25, 2011
36 points
Apr 12, 2012
If Military is still open.... This is a fun route Possum Lips

mountainproject.com/v/possum-l...
climbamt
Joined Nov 1, 2006
32 points
Apr 12, 2012
mustardtiger wrote:
Wasn't Military closed, im not posotive on this so if it is open I'm sorry for the mix up. If your in Muir be sure to donate or else you may have another Roadside that is just something nice to look at.


Haven't tried Military so far, but second the Muir donation comment...that's really an amazing thing that the Weber's have done for the climbing community. So many great routes in such a beautiful setting! Not a lot of folks out there that are putting their private playground out there for the general public to use. We had the pleasure of meeting Rick today (he was building a picnic table for you). Really nice person, no great surprise given the total awesomeness that he and his wife have created in Muir Valley. And yes, I did donate!
Optimistic
From New Paltz
Joined Aug 29, 2007
244 points
Apr 13, 2012
IDK
I don't even climb in the Red mostly becuase I perfer bouldering but I have alot of friends and family who really enjoyed roadside so I don't want to see that happen to a place like Muir...and yes I know that roadside was apparently closed due to the conditions at the crag but its all about moneny when you think about it. mustardtiger
Joined Oct 25, 2011
36 points
Apr 13, 2012
mustardtiger wrote:
I don't even climb in the Red mostly becuase I perfer bouldering but I have alot of friends and family who really enjoyed roadside so I don't want to see that happen to a place like Muir...and yes I know that roadside was apparently closed due to the conditions at the crag but its all about moneny when you think about it.


I am trying to think about it but I don't see how money would of prevented Roadside from closing.
JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Apr 13, 2012
route photo
mountainproject.com/v/the-grea...

You have to go check this part out; mountainproject.com/v/bruise-b...
Brent Butcher
Joined Nov 18, 2010
314 points
Apr 13, 2012
DexterRutecki wrote:
Meh boltergeist isnt that great, especially because everybody and their brother thinks its the best route in the Red and is perpetually packed. I think thrillbillies which is also 10b slab is a MUCH better route, more continuous, better moves, and not gang banged by gumbies all day! Other good tens check out the gallery wall, bruise brothers, great wall, hideout, techtonic, the shire, the playground etc etc... Just look through the book, they are everywhere!


I'm pretty sure this is the only guy that has responded that has spent any meaningful time in the red.

Everything at Tectonic and Bruise Brothers is popular because the climbs are downy soft.

Breakfast Burrito and Fire and brimstone are great, but good luck not waiting in line.

Thrillbillies really is a superb route.

Check out Chica Bonita and the Crossroads as well.


Obligatory douchebag moment - you're not going to enjoy the red all that much, most of the 10 and under climbs suck. Come back when you're stronger and enjoy the wonderland.
ethlogo
Joined Jan 21, 2011
2 points
Apr 13, 2012
IDK
JasonJNSmith wrote:
I am trying to think about it but I don't see how money would of prevented Roadside from closing.


honestly I forgot about the hammick and dog issue whe I made that post. Another one of the problems the onwers had was that they thought the base was getting too erodid and that the trail needed repair, thats more of a money issue. The other stuff I agree had nothing to do with owner it was just poeples habits and trash getting on their nerves and the owners refusal to allow other climbers help clean up the area. As soon as they began complaining about the new routes and permadraws dozens of climbers volunteered to removed the gear and help repair the trails but its remained close up until this winter when they began doing guided climbs there for 175 a day. I really really dont want to see Muir comes to this even though I dont climb there I still enjoy the hiking and spectating.
mustardtiger
Joined Oct 25, 2011
36 points


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