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RR Rendezvous Crags?
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By Mark Limage
Mar 26, 2014

I know that clinic venues/crags have been posted on MP in the past. Seems it may have gotten overlooked this year. So can somebody from MG, AAI or the BLM please post the 38 or 42 (or however many it is) crags that will be deprived from Jane & Joe Public this weekend. It really is a helpful little public service gesture. Please include the First Creek multi-pitch action (and any other crags/routes as well). Thanks.


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By mcarizona
From Flag
Mar 27, 2014

Bump.

Its bad enough we get there from 4 hours away and the campground's closed...... After the season? Yep, been turned away by that too.


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By Ian McG
Mar 27, 2014

Wait, the Red Rocks Campground is closed?


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 27, 2014

campground doesnt close until the end of May- its probably full, though.

Crags- I'm surprised Jason hasn't posted it, but I think its the standard fare- pretty much any interesting/popular crag in the first three pullouts and calico + ragged edges/peaches in Willow Springs.


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By Ian McG
Mar 27, 2014

Ah, thanks for the clarification John. Sounds like we'll probably end up staying elsewhere anyways.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Mar 27, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

In the past I have stayed at Boulder station casino for cheaper than the campground fee ($13/night) and they have coffee in the lobby, and lots of interesting people to look at on your way in and out….


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By BLM Red Rock
Mar 27, 2014

Red Rock Rendezvous 2014 Crag List


March 28, 2014

First Creek Canyon

1) Lotta Balls Wall


March 29 – March 30, 2014

Calico Basin/Red Springs

1) Moderate Mecca
2) Kraft Boulders
3) Cannibal Crag
4) Jabba the Hut
5) Riding Hood Wall
6) Dickies Cliff
7) Gnat Man Wall
8) 3rd class above Moderate Mecca
9) Cowlick Crag
10) Cut Your Teeth Crag
11) The Fox
12) Hide and Seek Crag
13) Third Class below Reptile Rock

First Pullout

1) Civilization Crags
2) The Hamlet
3) Iron Man Wall
4) The Fixx Cliff
5) The Oasis
6) Tuna and Chips Wall
7) Newcastle Crag
8) UItraman Wall
9) Aquifer
10) Viagra Tower
11) Scramblers Wall

Second Pullout

1) The Magic Bus
2) Black Corridor
3) Hunter S. Thompson Dome
4) Meet-Up Wall
5) USS Crag

Sandstone Quarry

1) Front Slab/Fender Bender
2) Wake Up Wall
3) Chrysler Crack

Willow Springs

1) Outhouse Wall
2) Black track Area
3) Ragged Edges Area
4) Tonto Area
5) Case Face

RRR crags are non-exclusive use and remain open to the general public.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 27, 2014

Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands.


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By dnoB ekiM
Mar 27, 2014
Wonderstuff

John Wilder wrote:
Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands.


+1


Are these areas "closed" to non rendezvous'rs while the RRR is there? Not that I will go within 10 miles of RR this weekend.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 27, 2014

Technically, no- but since clinics are a minimum of 10 people with an early start, they effectively shut the crags down as they get there first and get lines on everything thats popular for the entire day.


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Mar 27, 2014

John Wilder wrote:
Technically, no- but since clinics are a minimum of 10 people with an early start, they effectively shut the crags down as they get there first and get lines on everything thats popular for the entire day.


Actually maximum commercial group size in the park is 12. That is the list of permitted areas not where participants will actually be each day.


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By Andrew Yasso
Mar 28, 2014
Top of Rainbow Buttress

Group size limit at any given crag is 12, including guides/athletes/instructors.

Not every clinic fills at 12 people, some more technical clinics have caps, and therefore not every crag will have 12 people at them.

Clinics are split up by AM and PM sessions, which means your 500 number that you are working from is incorrect.

Not every participant will show up for the clinic they are scheduled for. No one will be added in their place.

Yes, it is still a lot of people. Yes, you can still find good climbing in Red Rock. Yes I am biased because I work the event and care about new and experienced people coming together to enjoy this sport. There are many ways to accomplish that; this is one of them. It is one weekend out of roughly 30+ climbable weekends in Red Rock.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Mar 28, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

John Wilder wrote:
Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands.


Amen!


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By Whippin
From Bend, OR
Mar 28, 2014

NickinCO wrote:
In the past I have stayed at Boulder station casino for cheaper than the campground fee ($13/night) and they have coffee in the lobby, and lots of interesting people to look at on your way in and out….


Ah yes, the charming Boulder Station....lol


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By Ladron de Engranajes
Mar 28, 2014

Nice delete John Wilder, no butthurt from you over not doing it again this year.

Here's a tiny violin for you


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By Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Mar 28, 2014
Dow Williams, 2011

This much bitching and moaning about entry level climbing locales at RR during spring break? Rendezvous or no Rendezvous...Red Rock, Zion, Moab are crowded this week...think about it....spring break is one of the heaviest tourist times of the year for the US, climbers or otherwise. Great spring weather = hoards of people...does not take a genius to figure that out.

In regards to rock climbing....many large capacity destinations like Yosemite are not available....what do you think is going to happen in the desert? Simple supply and demand. Are you telling me that routes like Lotta Balls were not going to be a shit show this weekend even if the Rendezvous did not exist??? If you are guiding, get more creative...if on your own, hike longer and climb harder. It really is that simple. Not to mention that the ice routes and backcountry snow I have been on this month have been wide open as most folks who are traveling are pining for warm weather...and well, we all live it 300 days a year do we not?

If you are guiding and/or have a ceiling of 5.9 and looking for fun routes, here is a sample of less traveled routes in comparison to what lines of people will be waiting for on the weekend....

Stilgar's Wild Ride better than Tunnel Vision
Middle Earth better than Frigid Air Buttress
Brass Balls (right side start) better than Birdland
Chasing Shadows as good as Dark Shadows
Requiem for a Tadpole and Sweet Thin better than Armatron
Frieda's Flake better than Johnny Vegas
Chicken Lips better than Black Orpheus
Voodoo Doll and Black Magic better than Lotta Balls
Amber as good as Wholesome Fullback
Hot Fudge Thursday as good as Jubilant Song

If you are not guiding, have an aversion to hiking deeper in the canyons and want to avoid crowds on the wall, sac up and climb in Zion. It is all crack, easy access and takes all the gear you want to place. We have many Indian Creek quality pitches that don't see much traffic...because there is no scene and hoopla to go with the actual climbing. If you are a sport climber and want to avoid the crowds at RR, either travel out to Utah Hills or go to the climbing gym this weekend...you won't miss much.


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By Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Mar 28, 2014
new toy

dnoB ekiM wrote:
+1 Are these areas "closed" to non rendezvous'rs while the RRR is there? Not that I will go within 10 miles of RR this weekend.


These areas are not closed to other climbers. Although these crags will be crowded, most guides and athletes will try hard to accommodate other climbers that want to get on routes.

I hope everyone has a fun weekend no matter where they are climbing.


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By other
From San Diego, CA
Apr 6, 2014

What month and year was boulder station casino $13/night or was that per person? Right the rooms range from $33-$120 night.

NickinCO wrote:
In the past I have stayed at Boulder station casino for cheaper than the campground fee ($13/night) and they have coffee in the lobby, and lots of interesting people to look at on your way in and out….


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Apr 6, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

other wrote:
What month and year was boulder station casino $13/night or was that per person? Right the rooms range from $33-$120 night.


2012? Stayed there multiple times for that rate actually... I think I flew out there 5 or 6 times that year. Must have been a special they were running...


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