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RR Rendezvous Crags?
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Mar 26, 2014
I know that clinic venues/crags have been posted on MP in the past. Seems it may have gotten overlooked this year. So can somebody from MG, AAI or the BLM please post the 38 or 42 (or however many it is) crags that will be deprived from Jane & Joe Public this weekend. It really is a helpful little public service gesture. Please include the First Creek multi-pitch action (and any other crags/routes as well). Thanks. Mark Limage
Joined Apr 1, 2010
32 points
Mar 27, 2014
Bump.

Its bad enough we get there from 4 hours away and the campground's closed...... After the season? Yep, been turned away by that too.
mcarizona
From Flag
Joined Feb 5, 2007
223 points
Mar 27, 2014
Wait, the Red Rocks Campground is closed? Ian McG
Joined Jun 30, 2011
56 points
Mar 27, 2014
campground doesnt close until the end of May- its probably full, though.

Crags- I'm surprised Jason hasn't posted it, but I think its the standard fare- pretty much any interesting/popular crag in the first three pullouts and calico + ragged edges/peaches in Willow Springs.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,377 points
Mar 27, 2014
Ah, thanks for the clarification John. Sounds like we'll probably end up staying elsewhere anyways. Ian McG
Joined Jun 30, 2011
56 points
Mar 27, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
In the past I have stayed at Boulder station casino for cheaper than the campground fee ($13/night) and they have coffee in the lobby, and lots of interesting people to look at on your way in and out…. NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Mar 27, 2014
Red Rock Rendezvous 2014 Crag List


March 28, 2014

First Creek Canyon

1) Lotta Balls Wall


March 29 – March 30, 2014

Calico Basin/Red Springs

1) Moderate Mecca
2) Kraft Boulders
3) Cannibal Crag
4) Jabba the Hut
5) Riding Hood Wall
6) Dickies Cliff
7) Gnat Man Wall
8) 3rd class above Moderate Mecca
9) Cowlick Crag
10) Cut Your Teeth Crag
11) The Fox
12) Hide and Seek Crag
13) Third Class below Reptile Rock

First Pullout

1) Civilization Crags
2) The Hamlet
3) Iron Man Wall
4) The Fixx Cliff
5) The Oasis
6) Tuna and Chips Wall
7) Newcastle Crag
8) UItraman Wall
9) Aquifer
10) Viagra Tower
11) Scramblers Wall

Second Pullout

1) The Magic Bus
2) Black Corridor
3) Hunter S. Thompson Dome
4) Meet-Up Wall
5) USS Crag

Sandstone Quarry

1) Front Slab/Fender Bender
2) Wake Up Wall
3) Chrysler Crack

Willow Springs

1) Outhouse Wall
2) Black track Area
3) Ragged Edges Area
4) Tonto Area
5) Case Face

RRR crags are non-exclusive use and remain open to the general public.
BLM Red Rock
Joined Mar 10, 2011
2 points
Mar 27, 2014
Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,377 points
Mar 27, 2014
Wonderstuff
John Wilder wrote:
Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands.


+1


Are these areas "closed" to non rendezvous'rs while the RRR is there? Not that I will go within 10 miles of RR this weekend.
dnoB ekiM
Joined Aug 20, 2009
1,076 points
Mar 27, 2014
Technically, no- but since clinics are a minimum of 10 people with an early start, they effectively shut the crags down as they get there first and get lines on everything thats popular for the entire day. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,377 points
Mar 27, 2014
John Wilder wrote:
Technically, no- but since clinics are a minimum of 10 people with an early start, they effectively shut the crags down as they get there first and get lines on everything thats popular for the entire day.


Actually maximum commercial group size in the park is 12. That is the list of permitted areas not where participants will actually be each day.
cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
239 points
Mar 28, 2014
Top of Rainbow Buttress
Group size limit at any given crag is 12, including guides/athletes/instructors.

Not every clinic fills at 12 people, some more technical clinics have caps, and therefore not every crag will have 12 people at them.

Clinics are split up by AM and PM sessions, which means your 500 number that you are working from is incorrect.

Not every participant will show up for the clinic they are scheduled for. No one will be added in their place.

Yes, it is still a lot of people. Yes, you can still find good climbing in Red Rock. Yes I am biased because I work the event and care about new and experienced people coming together to enjoy this sport. There are many ways to accomplish that; this is one of them. It is one weekend out of roughly 30+ climbable weekends in Red Rock.
Andrew Yasso
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 9, 2012
188 points
Mar 28, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
John Wilder wrote:
Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands.


Amen!
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Mar 28, 2014
NickinCO wrote:
In the past I have stayed at Boulder station casino for cheaper than the campground fee ($13/night) and they have coffee in the lobby, and lots of interesting people to look at on your way in and out….


Ah yes, the charming Boulder Station....lol
Whippin
From Bend, OR
Joined Mar 28, 2011
32 points
Mar 28, 2014
Nice delete John Wilder, no butthurt from you over not doing it again this year.

Here's a tiny violin for you

Ladron de Engranajes
Joined Feb 19, 2014
2 points
Mar 28, 2014
Dow Williams, 2011
This much bitching and moaning about entry level climbing locales at RR during spring break? Rendezvous or no Rendezvous...Red Rock, Zion, Moab are crowded this week...think about it....spring break is one of the heaviest tourist times of the year for the US, climbers or otherwise. Great spring weather = hoards of people...does not take a genius to figure that out.

In regards to rock climbing....many large capacity destinations like Yosemite are not available....what do you think is going to happen in the desert? Simple supply and demand. Are you telling me that routes like Lotta Balls were not going to be a shit show this weekend even if the Rendezvous did not exist??? If you are guiding, get more creative...if on your own, hike longer and climb harder. It really is that simple. Not to mention that the ice routes and backcountry snow I have been on this month have been wide open as most folks who are traveling are pining for warm weather...and well, we all live it 300 days a year do we not?

If you are guiding and/or have a ceiling of 5.9 and looking for fun routes, here is a sample of less traveled routes in comparison to what lines of people will be waiting for on the weekend....

Stilgar's Wild Ride better than Tunnel Vision
Middle Earth better than Frigid Air Buttress
Brass Balls (right side start) better than Birdland
Chasing Shadows as good as Dark Shadows
Requiem for a Tadpole and Sweet Thin better than Armatron
Frieda's Flake better than Johnny Vegas
Chicken Lips better than Black Orpheus
Voodoo Doll and Black Magic better than Lotta Balls
Amber as good as Wholesome Fullback
Hot Fudge Thursday as good as Jubilant Song

If you are not guiding, have an aversion to hiking deeper in the canyons and want to avoid crowds on the wall, sac up and climb in Zion. It is all crack, easy access and takes all the gear you want to place. We have many Indian Creek quality pitches that don't see much traffic...because there is no scene and hoopla to go with the actual climbing. If you are a sport climber and want to avoid the crowds at RR, either travel out to Utah Hills or go to the climbing gym this weekend...you won't miss much.
Dow Williams
From Saint George, UT
Joined Mar 13, 2006
196 points
Mar 28, 2014
new toy
dnoB ekiM wrote:
+1 Are these areas "closed" to non rendezvous'rs while the RRR is there? Not that I will go within 10 miles of RR this weekend.


These areas are not closed to other climbers. Although these crags will be crowded, most guides and athletes will try hard to accommodate other climbers that want to get on routes.

I hope everyone has a fun weekend no matter where they are climbing.
Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Joined Sep 14, 2008
191 points
Apr 6, 2014
What month and year was boulder station casino $13/night or was that per person? Right the rooms range from $33-$120 night.

NickinCO wrote:
In the past I have stayed at Boulder station casino for cheaper than the campground fee ($13/night) and they have coffee in the lobby, and lots of interesting people to look at on your way in and out….
other
From San Diego, CA
Joined Apr 3, 2006
11 points
Apr 6, 2014
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
other wrote:
What month and year was boulder station casino $13/night or was that per person? Right the rooms range from $33-$120 night.


2012? Stayed there multiple times for that rate actually... I think I flew out there 5 or 6 times that year. Must have been a special they were running...
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Mar 25, 2015
Bumpitty Bump...because it's that time of year again...for the 13th year in row.

MG, AAI, BLM...please post-up and notify the public. It's the least you can do for the scores of visiting climbers who didn't know the Rendezvous was this weekend, like the two gals from Toronto who were hoping to have a few days of clipping bolts on 5.7-5.9 routes in the Calico Hills this weekend.

"RRR crags are non-exclusive use and remain open to the general public." Now there's a spicy little nugget of misinformation. Because, you know, walking up to the Cowlick Crag (or any crag) and seeing 12-15 people with every anchor and route monopolized for 2 days just SCREAMS "non-exclusive" and "open to the general public."
Mark Limage
Joined Apr 1, 2010
32 points
Mar 25, 2015
John Wilder wrote:
Thanks, Red Rock Rendezvous, for taking up every single beginners crag in the area, even the new ones not in the book. I feel like there should be a limit to what the festival can take over so that there are crags available to non-participants who are paying fees to access and recreate on public lands.

agreed
pbrownw
From Randallstown, MD
Joined Aug 23, 2014
3 points
Mar 25, 2015
Chuck in the final mellow section of Te Dum at the...
Below text is copied from the Red Rock Rendezvous web site , and lists the crags they have on the menu.

...

For the Red Rock Rendezvous clinics, most of the proposed clinic sites will be on these crags located within four major areas within RRCNCA:

  • First Pullout: The Fixx Cliff, Dog Wall, Tuna & Chips Wall, Meat Puppets Wall, Bermuda Wall, Mark's Beginner Crag, Mark and Jake's Area
  • Second Pullout: Sweet Pain Wall, Black Corridor, Great Red Book Area, The Sandbox, The Magic Bus, Sun City, Bewitched
  • Sandstone Quarry: Guide's Wall, Mass Production Wall, Wake-up Wall, Avian Wall, The Trophy, The Hall of Fame, Frictiony Face Panty Waist, Split Infinity, Nevada Book, Spikes and Twine, Sub-America Crag
  • Willow Spring: Ragged Edges Cliff, The Case Face, Black Tract Area, Outhouse Wall, Karate Crack Area

These crag areas provide a wide variety of face, crack, bolted and non bolted climbing, one and multi-pitch routes, ranging from 5.3 to 5.12 plus. There WILL be something for everyone!

...

Let the bitching commence.
Chuck Parks
From Atlanta, GA
Joined Jan 30, 2008
1,463 points
Mar 25, 2015
The backside of the civilization crags is very loose and crunchy, hopefully all the activity this weekend will clean it up some :) Jacob Koffler
From Las Vegas
Joined Jan 26, 2014
3 points
Mar 25, 2015
Top of Rainbow Buttress
Friday - Sunday: Lotta Balls Wall/First Creek Slabs

Friday: Jabba the Hut, Cannibal Crag, Hamlet, Civilization Crag, Aquifer, Tuna and Chips, The Oasis, Moderate Mecca, Cowlick Crag, Dickies Cliff, Gnat Man Crag, Viagra Tower, Newcastle Wall, Scramblers Wall, Amusement Park, Meet-Up Wall, Black Corridor, Wake Up Wall, Magic Bus

Saturday: Moderate Mecca, Kraft Boulders, Cannibal Crag, Riding Hood Wall, Dickies Cliff, Gnat Man Crag, Jabba the Hut, Hide and Seek, Cowlick Crag, Cut Your Teeth, The Fox, Iron Man Wall, Fixx Cliff, The Oasis, The Aquifer, Tuna and Chips, Scramblers Wall, Hamlet, Newcastle Crag, Ultraman, Viagra Tower, Civilization Crag, Amusement Park, Magic Bus, Black Corridor, USS Crag, Meet-Up Wall, Front Slab/Fender Bender, Wake-Up Wall, Chrysler Crack, Outhouse Wall, Black Track Area, Ragged Edges, Tonto Area, Case Fase

Sunday: Moderate Mecca, Kraft Boulders, Cannibal Crag, Riding Hood Wall, Dickies Cliff, Gnat Man Crag, Jabba the Hut, Hide and Seek, Cowlick Crag, Cut Your Teeth, The Fox, Iron Man Wall, Fixx Cliff, The Oasis, The Aquifer, Tuna and Chips, Scramblers Wall, Hamlet, Newcastle Crag, Ultraman, Viagra Tower, Civilization Crag, Amusement Park, Magic Bus, Black Corridor, USS Crag, Meet-Up Wall, Front Slab/Fender Bender, Wake-Up Wall, Chrysler Crack, Outhouse Wall, Black Track Area, Ragged Edges, Tonto Area, Case Face

I hadn't noticed no one from the BLM uploaded this yet, my apologies for the delay.
Andrew Yasso
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 9, 2012
188 points
Mar 26, 2015
Thanks for posting up Andrew. And Thanks to Chuck Parks who copied the text from the MG-RRR website. The information on the website is very incomplete and it is worth pointing out that there are many discrepancies with crags Andrew has listed and the routes listed on the RRR website, which is total joke.

Also contrary to what the website claims, the clinic sites are not in "just four major areas," unless you don't consider Calico Basin to be a "major area." Calico Basin is home to Moderate Mecca, Kraft Boulders, Cannibal Crag, Riding Hood Wall, Dickies Cliff, Gnat Man Crag, Jabba the Hut, Hide and Seek, Cowlick Crag, Cut Your Teeth, and The Fox, all of which are being used for the Rendezvous. That's 11 of the 35 "crags" being over-run by Rendezvousers. Sounds like a major area to me.

I'm going to assume that Andrew's info is accurate. Of the 30 crags listed on the RRR website, 18 are not in Andrew's list; nor were they in last year's BLM list. So, yeah, Thanks Chuck, but the website info is...fictional face, painty waist worthless. 12 out of 30 correct, it's a good average if you're swinging at baseballs, not so much when you are informing the public...or future clients.

Also Andrew, MP spokesperson for RRR, please confirm details of the 6th major climbing area you are now monopolizing; because I am confused by your post. Did the BLM approve of 2 more additional days of Lotta Balls Wall/First Creek Slabs domination? Because last year it was just one day. Is this a typo or should the public just forget about the Lotta Balls Wall for 3 days while you run your trains up & down?
Mark Limage
Joined Apr 1, 2010
32 points
Mar 26, 2015
new toy
Mark,

Last year we used Lotta Balls wall Saturday and Sunday, this year includes Friday.

Cheers,

Doug
Doug Foust
From Henderson, Nevada
Joined Sep 14, 2008
191 points


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