|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a great route as it tests your nerves more than anything.
Start up easy cracks and ledges. Then commit to the thin seam up and left. Place gear when it is available because placements are intermittent but good when you get them, although gear may occupy your only hold at times. When the crack peters out move up and left to the 2 bolt anchor.
In the middle of the climb you can move out left, do a few face moves and back right to the crack for a slightly easier option as the crack and friction moves feel pretty desperate here. If you toprope this climb be sure to have the rope a bit "loose" as any tension can make this climb quite a bit easier.
This route is on the far right side of the Ice Cream Parlor slabs. It starts 30 feet right of the bolted line HOT CARL SUNDAY which is just right of Crack 1 (aka WOLVERINE). It is also about 80 feet left of A Good Day To Die. This route is unmistakable, it is one of a kind for this area as it is a very thin seam/crack splitting beautifully varnished rock to a 2 bolt anchor(was a 1 bolt anchor for many years until spring 07).
This route is incorrectly described on the topo of Rock Climbing Utah showing it climbing the arete on the right side of the slabs. That is a different yet good climb which starts from the far right side of the ledge, past one bolt, into the crack/corner, finishing over a small roof just right of the arete (about 10a). Single 60m rope rappel just barely get you back to the ledge. Caution: the ledge is about 20 feet above the ground.
small cams and nuts/rp's up to 2 inches, heavy on the small stuff.
Tom pawing his way up a well-named pitch.