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 ADVANCED
Lower Cliffs, Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrow Head S 
Captain Cheese Dog S 
Flatus S 
Grizzly Crack T 
Indian Springs S 
Out of the Blue TR 
RP 4 Me T,S 
Sundaze S 
Super Thin T 
Zephyr S 

RP 4 Me 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 680
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Jul 23, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Sallie high up on RP 4 Me!

Description 

RP 4 Me is the second climb right of the thin crack, Super Thin, just right of Indian Springs. The route goes up moderate face climbing towards the small left leaning crack in the upper steeper section. Additional gear here supplements bolt protection. A very fun and secure lead for someone breaking into this level.


Protection 

3 or 4 bolts plus a couple trad placements makes this an excellent mixed lead. Small to medium gear protect the long runouts between bolts. Anchors are 2 bolts with chains and rappel ring.



Photos of RP 4 Me Slideshow Add Photo
Paul starting the upper section.  The climbs meets up with crack above which does take additional gear.
Paul starting the upper section. The climbs meets...
Paul approaching the steeper upper section.  You can see two trad placements below protecting one of the runout sections.
Paul approaching the steeper upper section. You c...
Brad starting up PR 4 Me.
Brad starting up PR 4 Me.
Naoko higher up starting on the steeper upper face.
Naoko higher up starting on the steeper upper face...
Brad looking relaxed getting ready for the steeper face above.
Brad looking relaxed getting ready for the steeper...
Two cam placements and two bolts protect the upper wall. A few feet to go to the anchors.
Two cam placements and two bolts protect the upper...
A couple of trad placements protect some of the longer runouts between bolts.
A couple of trad placements protect some of the lo...
Naoko looking good and relaxed.  This really is a pleasant face climb!
Naoko looking good and relaxed. This really is a ...
A nice shot showing Brad way up on the pitch.
A nice shot showing Brad way up on the pitch.
Closer view of the upper section.  A walk in the park for Naoko!
Closer view of the upper section. A walk in the p...
Comments on RP 4 Me Add Comment
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By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Jul 27, 2005

Great route, fun lead. Without the additional gear placement it would be pretty scary between bolts. The top is pretty slopey and mostly friction holds and balance moves. The route most likely goes more to the left, but if you go a little right of the anchor there are two really good handholds. They are nice to find, especially since it is a long way to the last bolt, but the cam placement in between is solid.

By splitclimber
Sep 24, 2010

don't miss this one.
crux at the top out IMO.