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Rattlesnake Buttress
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Roy's Route 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Unknown (lower section), D, Hensel &T. Gordon, '89 (upper part)
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 13, 2003

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Kris at the last bolt on the runout upper slabby s...

Description 

This 160' pitch on the west end of Rattlesnake Buttress begins at the base of an intermittent black vertical dike. Steep face climbing on thin edges (crux past third bolt) leads to doubled bolts 40' up (lower section of route - possible belay / rappel). Continue on lower angle runout slab to the rappel anchor. A long route with some interesting moves but there are too many exfoliating flakes for this to be a 3 out of 5 star climb.

Protection 

Quickdraws for eight bolts (1/4" and 3/8") to a two bolt (3/8") anchor. Two ropes are needed for one rappel to the ground (160').


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By Anonymous Coward
Dec 18, 2003

Roy McClenahan lead the first 30' + and drilled the first 2 bolts (this woud have been Spring '79), but he felt bolt #2 was shitty bailed. Hence the name Roy's Route..