Royal Flush  5.10b/c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.10b/c [details] FA:  Marc Volland - 12/2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Osprey on Nov 26, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking up at the bottom half of the crack. This ...

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route is mostly a seam which opens up to take pro every body length. Its a heady lead but ends up protecting well. Just like the other routs in the area, it usually needs to be cleaned since it doesn't see the traffic that Y-crack does.

Location 

This route is twenty feet left of Y-crack.

Protection 

I take one set of aliens up to red, one hand-to-large sized piece for the bottom flare, and one set of stoppers. Alien offsets also come in handy on this one. Make sure to bring a small stopper to protect the crux which is a key hole like placement in a steep section of a groove. It is only a move or two to get past the crux before a finger tip sized stopper can be placed on the right side of the groove. A continuous finger crack then begins and runs all the way to the anchor. Ideally, you would want a green, yellow, and red alien to finish off the top third of the pitch. There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top and can be rappelled with one 60m rope.