Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Grade II Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belladonna  T 
Ego Tripper T 
Royal Edge T 
Unsorted Routes:

Royal Edge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Dapper Dan Rogers on Aug 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pitch One

Description 

Cool sandstone laybackey crack. Traditionally done as 3 pitches I'm told, but can be easily done in 2 with a longer rope. Solid trees and ledges for belay.

Location 

Obvious, slightly right arching crack on far climbers right of the wall. No fixed anchors, walk off climbers right, or skirt the ridge east and rap from the chains above the mitten. Could rap this line direct from the large trees if you care to leave some slings and rings.

Protection 

Standard rack, Small cams helpful.


Comments on Royal Edge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Avi Katz
Jan 22, 2013

plenty of loose choss at the top of this one, beware. thanks for the add Dan!
By huecool
Apr 6, 2013

good route. P2 was the best by far. I went right on P3, which could have been harder. definitely felt harder than 5.7 to me to start, and had to run it out a little more than I was comfy with. 20-30 foot run out. after 30 feet it felt like 5.7. I would have wanted more big gear. I placed my Trango #9 on every pitch. Its between a 3 and 4 BD Camalot. I would have liked to have another big piece.
By CameronS
From: Lander, WY
Jun 17, 2013

Link P1 & P2 for a roughly 180ish ft pitch to a good gear belay. Leaves p3 to be about 60-70 ft, choss at the top of the cliff. Belay from a good tree.

If you dont mind the weight, being a #4 camalot, placed it on both pitches.

Decent is within sight of the climbers right on currently decent slings and 2 ovals. I removed 1 totally rotten sling, needs another webbing piece soon.

I was not able to hit the ground from the 1st rap, and moved to a large tree (climbers left) for a 2nd rap (about 80ft) to hit the ground.

I have been told its possible to hit the ground from the 1st rap with some down climbing, maybe with a 70m.