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Royal Columns

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Main Face 
Orange Sunshine area 

Royal Columns 


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Elevation: 2,000'
Page Views: 32,558
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: andyf on Feb 20, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Royal Columns with approach bridge
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Description 

With more than 70 routes and some great entry-level cracks, the Royal Columns is the historic heart of Tieton River climbing. It's still the most popular crag in the area.

About every five years or so someone touts the Columns as a "new" area. There's a lot of history here. Washington pioneers Tom and Meade Hargis cut their teeth at the Columns in the 1960s. In the 1970s, a talented group of Yakima climbers including Paul Boving, Matt & Jamie Christensen, Matt Kerns, and Kjell Swedin explored the crag before leaving their mark at Leavenworth, Index, and beyond. And, contrary to its reputation as a "trad" area, sport routes were being established at the Columns (and elsewhere in the Tieton) in the 1980s, before the first bolts were ever drilled at Little Si, Exit 38, or Frenchman Coulee.

The rock at the Columns is well-featured with horizontal edges, making for some fun footwork along the cracks and fun crimping on the face routes. The rock is generally quite solid, although there's a fair bit of loose stuff on the slopes above the cliff. Keep an eye out for rock fall when people are above the cliff, particularly if (or rather, when) an instructional group shows up.

In summer, the crag is shaded and cool in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. Be alert for rattlesnakes on the approach hike and along the cliff base. If you run into a snake, please leave it in peace.


Getting There 

The Columns are directly across the Tieton River from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area headquarters, about 3 miles west of where Highway 12 splits off from Highway 410. Park either on the broad shoulder along the river, or in the huge Wildlife Area lot across the highway. If parking in the lot, you'll need a Department of Fish & Wildlife Stewardship decal on your window ($10) or you'll risk a ticket. This is the same decal you need to park at Frenchman Coulee.

Cross the Tieton River on a nifty new footbridge, then follow the signs and cut to the right through a gated fence to pick up the Tieton Nature Trail. In a few hundred yards, the trail to the crag branches left and heads up the hillside. Please use this trail both getting to and leaving the crag. The trail reaches the crag around the area of Orange Sunshine.


Climbing Season


40 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',7],['5.7',8],['5.8',3],['5.9',7],['5.10',9],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Royal Columns:
Western Front   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Orange Sunshine area
Double Trouble   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Face
Little Known Wonder   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Face
The Cutting Edge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
Mush Maker   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Face
X-Factor   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
First Blood   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   Main Face
Render Us Weightless Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Main Face
Cross-eyed and Painless   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
Developing Arms   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
Jam Exam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Orange Sunshine area
Thriller Pillar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
Stress Management   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Orange Sunshine area
Inca Roads   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Face
Orange Sunshine   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
Paul Maul   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Orange Sunshine area
Columns Holiday   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 70'   Orange Sunshine area
Solar King   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Orange Sunshine area
The Price of Complacency   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Orange Sunshine area
Browse More Classics in Royal Columns

Featured Route For Royal Columns
From the base.

Inca Roads 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  WA : Tieton River : ... : Main Face
Another good crack line. Hands to fingers. Sucks up gear. Was rated 5.9 in the old guidebook....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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By andyf
From: Tacoma, WA
Jul 2, 2007

The division between the Main Face and the Orange Sunshine area is where you scramble over (or around) a nose of rock. You can see it in the photo where the cliff is divided into a shaded side (Main Face) and a sunny side (Orange Sunshine area). In terms of routes, the Rap Route would be the last route in the Orange Sunshine area, and Slacker the first route on the Main Face.