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Routefinding 101 
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Routefinding 101 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 215
Submitted By: George Bracksieck on Nov 11, 2012
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Near the top in the dihedral.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Do the left start for Tora Tora Tora, left of the gully. Climb straight up cracks, placing gear or clipping the three recently placed, unnecessary bolts. Clip and extend the first bolt on the TTT headwall, to protect the committing crux up and left to an exposed position above the Mr. Squirrel anchors. Tiny cams can be placed in horizontals on the way up to the V-dihedral. Follow the short dihedral to the rim. Anchor with gear.


Location 

Do the left start to TTT. Finish in the short, left-facing, right-leaning V-dihedral, left of the TTT headwall.


Protection 

SR, plus tiny cams and maybe small Tricams.



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By George Bracksieck
Nov 11, 2012

On 10/28/12, I led this and belayed Mike Endicott up.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 8, 2013

The crux to me seemed like the 2nd bolt area on the Tora, Tora, Tora start. The traverse to the left seemed easier. I did not use any Tricams. The biggest piece I used was a #1 Camalot and my other gear was small cams.