|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Mike Ousley and Friends|
|Submitted By:||Maidy on Apr 16, 2011|
|Comments on Christmas Chronicle||Add Comment|
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Jul 22, 2013
A note on Christmas Chronicle. It was put up on a Christmas day and come to find out... Mike originally rated this climb only 5.8.
Climbing this route over decade after it was put up... it had seen zero traffic.. it was covered in loose dirt and lichen and was an extremely intimidating lead with and R-rated fall factor if you didn't have right gear, so the consensus without the FA input was 10- at the time.
These days, it is clean and way less scary. The second bolt is a retro-bolt placed by an unknown party a couple years ago - it eliminated the potential ground-fall. The bolt also freed up the solitary foot/hand hold (the only place to put gear) making the bottom much easier. I'm starting to agree more with the moderate rating set by the FA. Although this route will seem tough for some, there are definitely easy ways to get up it. I'd call it 5.9 now.
This is a good line IMO. Not really my call, but if the FAist wants the retro-bolt removed it can get the chop. Bring a med/small cam and don't clip the second bolt if you want to experience it for real.
Sep 7, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
|Awesome climb. I'd say this and #2 are the best on the wall. That said, I'd also say they go at the same difficulty. The slabby stuff at the top is pretty thin and though provoking. So if this is a 9+ than so is #2 or vice versa for 10a.|