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Route suggestions for taking my girlfriend to Yosemite? :D
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By Max H. Janszen
From Bakersfield, CA
Feb 27, 2013
Hello,

I am going to be taking my girlfriend to Yosemite for a few days over spring break from NMMI, and was wondering if there were any decent routes for a beginner on granite that she would enjoy. I was thinking about a mellow day on After Six or After Seven, or maybe even some variations of the Nutcracker, but if you have any suggestions that would make for a smooth, well-protected climb that would be more enjoyable than challenging, then I would be very thankful. I've climbed in Yosemite a few times, but I'm still right under 5.10 crack climbing.

As for my ladyfriend, she is a big gym freak, matching my skill on high angle walls, but not overhangs. We also do a lot of spelunking together (mostly rappelling into missile silos, since the New Mexico Military Institute is located conveniently around 13 Atlas-F silos near Roswell, NM).

Thanks in advance for all your help everyone, I really appreciate it.

Cheers,

Max

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By S Denny
From Prescott, AZ
Feb 27, 2013
snake dike if you like to hike

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By John Ryan
From Poncha Springs, CO
Feb 27, 2013
No Name Crack, 5.10, Supercrack Buttress, Indian C...
Anything on Manure Pile Buttress would work. Depending on how easy you want Braille Book is mega classic and you top out of the Valley making for a spectacular finish. Grack Crack is a very mellow and aesthetic 3 pitch 5.6. Lots of options really. Arches route is great.

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By Max H. Janszen
From Bakersfield, CA
Feb 27, 2013
Thanks so much guys, these routes look pretty good so far!

Any more suggestions? I'm compiling a list for now, and will most likely be choosing one or two the week before we go, so I can get everything all reserved and planned out and whatnot. I'm just hoping it's not too crowded...

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 27, 2013
First 2 pitches of reeds direct 5.9, but very challenging. There's a fun 2 pitch 5.8 on the right side of reeds pinnacle. Super slide 5.9 above the awhanee. 5 open books area is good fun. Church bowl lieback & bishops terrace 5.8.

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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Feb 27, 2013
The Grack, although the last pitch could be unsettling. Its easy, but its a long runout.

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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2013
Half Dome
Central Pillar of Frenzy

mountainproject.com/v/central-...

Braille Book is awesome, but a long steep hike in/out. Take your time getting off the summit (lots of cliff bands) and do it before nightfall.

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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 27, 2013
One, you didn't say what your girlfriend could climb outside, but I'm assuming it's not harder than 5.9 since that's your limit? If I'm wrong, you can correct me since that might prompt other suggestions.

Manure Pile is great. Knob Hill, Munginella, Commitment (easiest 5.9 in the Valley), the Grack, Harry Daley Route, the Jamcrack. E. Butt of Middle Cathedral has only a short section of 5.9 if you aid the short bolt ladder. Royal Arches, though the top may be really wet. Bishop's Terrace is a great 5.8 but will punish those not well versed in a range of jamming sizes.

I think the Braille Book, though a good route, is not a particularly good suggestion since, as someone already mentioned, it's got a long approach as well as some wide crack that will seem burly to the uninitiated.

You might also want to check some of the newer routes put on places like the Cookie Sheet. Better bolted and moderate climbing. Looks fun. You could probably do a search on the Supertopo site and find something.

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By vincent L.
From Redwood City
Feb 27, 2013
First day of school
You should be thinking waaay more basic than the routes listed for a beginner , check this route out :

mountainproject.com/v/sunnysid...

After you top out you can hike to the top of lower Yosemite Falls , during late summer / early fall , there is an amazing set of pools up there , I doubt it sees more than a handful of visitors a year ...

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By vincent L.
From Redwood City
Feb 27, 2013
First day of school
advising a new climber , climbing with a girl who has very limited experience outside , to do a route like Braille Book is a huge diservice IMO ...

... be careful .

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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Feb 27, 2013
vincent L. wrote:
You should be thinking waaay more basic than the routes listed for a beginner , check this route out : mountainproject.com/v/sunnysid... After you top out you can hike to the top of lower Yosemite Falls , during late summer / early fall , there is an amazing set of pools up there , I doubt it sees more than a handful of visitors a year ...


Given how bad the walkoff was in May, I can't say that Sunnyside Bench would be such a great place for someone without much outdoor climbing experience. There are several DO NOT FALL sections on loose dirt on that walkoff, and you might see a full-blown meltdown from a person accustomed to the exposure. If you go, plan on leaving slings on trees for the rap off. Its faster, and way less likely to result in a climbing-career/relationship ending freak-out.

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By vincent L.
From Redwood City
Feb 27, 2013
First day of school
I've rapped Sunnyside Bench a couple of times off anchors , (there is often slings and gear around the trees as well) ... and lowered a partner who didn't feel confident rapping .

But you're right the walk off , if you chose not to rap , has some exposed areas .

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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2013
vincent L. wrote:
You should be thinking waaay more basic than the routes listed for a beginner , check this route out : mountainproject.com/v/sunnysid... After you top out you can hike to the top of lower Yosemite Falls , during late summer / early fall , there is an amazing set of pools up there , I doubt it sees more than a handful of visitors a year ...

Did this in June of last year and can honestly say it was the worst route I'd done in a long while. The pools were cool (unfortunately the waterfall was still flowing so we didn't get in) and the walkoff was interesting, but the climbing was terrible, dirty and ant-infested.

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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Feb 27, 2013
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.
vincent L. wrote:
You should be thinking waaay more basic than the routes listed for a beginner , check this route out : mountainproject.com/v/sunnysid... After you top out you can hike to the top of lower Yosemite Falls , during late summer / early fall , there is an amazing set of pools up there , I doubt it sees more than a handful of visitors a year ...


I can't comment on the quality of the climbing on the Sunnyside Bench RR, but I definitely agree with something more in line with it.

Snake Dike? Definitely not good for spring break time of year and a huge hike. Does your girlfriend enjoy long approaches? I'd guess that's not what you guys are looking to do. Braille Book? Really, that's not a good choice imho. It's hard and wide. All the others mentioned are pretty challenging crack climbing as well i.e. something she probably wont enjoy. But that's really what yosemite is. The grack would probably be ok though if it's warm. I got nothing to really offer if you're just lookin for a fun, nonchallenging route. Yeah, the cookie sheet or parkline slab probably has something and especially for colder temps.

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 27, 2013
If you are doing all the leading then pick something you enjoy and let her figure her way up it. If she hates it she sucks. If she loves it hand her the rack and a wedding ring.

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By SirTobyThe3rd
Feb 27, 2013
Hello
Ignore Braille Book (unless she knows how to climb OWs and enjoys it. There are some awesome face pitches on Braille book too though. I loved the climb, but I like some wide).

Ignore Reg. roue on sunnyside bench. The descent is pure shit. And as poster above said, climbing is not fun.

After 6/7 as a true yosemite experience? Dunno, I think views there are crap compared to other options, and climbing is boring. Might as well take her to a random crag with 3 star climbing.


If you are ok with 5.9 do Central Pillar of Frenzy or East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. CPoF is more sustained (but shorter pitches- 5 100ft pitches), but shorter, and you can rap off. Both of those routes have incredible views of El Cap she wont forget. Descent from East Buttress is a bit long for someone who doesn't like to hike though.

Snake dike is the best option if she is ok with the hike part. Summit half dome by a nice little climb, awesome views, have tourons hero worship you on top etc etc. Better than climbing El Cap! Runout sections are super easy and 5.7 is very well protected.

Ejesta, is mellow, has nice views and cool crack climbing on 2nd pitch.

Munginella/Commitment/Sellangenella all have great views of Lost Arrow Spire/Yosemite falls. You can link up 2 routes. Choose a different route if one has a line. Short approach. Commitment is super mellow with one 5.9 crux. Sellangenella is one of the best 5.8s I have done. Has a wide crack on first pitch, but not very hard. Just a groove you go up. Last 2 pitches are awesome.

Grack/Harry Daley is another idea if it is warm enough when you go.

Have fun whatever you decide!

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By Jeff Kent
From Sedona, Az
Feb 27, 2013
Snake Dike sounds like a good option. If NMMI is still working you guys like it was when I was there, the approach shouldn't be a problem. Also, Royal Arches!

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By Unassigned User
Feb 27, 2013
I recommend generator crack and hand job. Both really give you a feel for the valley experience.

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By Max H. Janszen
From Bakersfield, CA
Feb 27, 2013
Well as far as descents, I have two 70m ropes so I can cover some pretty long rappels if I need to, if that helps open anything up...

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By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Feb 27, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of w...
Pat & Jacks or New Diversions have fun routes ALL over them.

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By SirTobyThe3rd
Feb 28, 2013
Hello
Max H. Janszen wrote:
Well as far as descents, I have two 70m ropes so I can cover some pretty long rappels if I need to, if that helps open anything up...


Do Central Pillar of Frenzy! SHORT approach, GREAT views, moderate QUALITY climbing. My favorite climb in the valley that I would call pure fun. 2 ropes needed to rap off.

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