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Cool route. Bouldery (and a little loose) off the ground. The roof is easier than it looks. Then up the engaging slab above. Lots of sidepulls keep it interesting up top.
Just right of where the approach trail hits the wall, and just left of a big, left-facing corner/overhang. Also identified by the polished appearing slab above.
Bolts to bolted anchor.
|By Sam Miller|
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 17, 2012
This is actually route 8 from the "Sweet Spots" climbing guide and is .11c. I don't know who is posting all the wrong info for these climbs, but this is solid .11c. The crux is up in the smooth polished section past the roof. Powerful move off the ground leads to easy roof, then tricky slab. I liked this one a lot.
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Climbed this today, using a borrowed guide book from a friend (I forget the name but it wasn't the "sweet spots" book mentioned in the other comment. It was listed as "Wango Tango" with a rating of 5.11b. This rating seems relatively accurate (maybe b/c-ish) and was a great climb well worth doing. It was also the only of four climbs I did there that seemed to have an accurate rating. The three climbs immediately to it's left (listed R-L as 5.9+, 5.9, and 5.8) all felt substantially sandbagged so keep this in mind if climbing in the area using the local guide book.