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Unknown Pillar
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Route A S 
Route B S 
Route C T 
Route D S 
Route E S 
Route F S 

Route F 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 2, 2012

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Rope shredder anchor

Description 

Route F: Best of the crappy rock routes on this crag. Thin-ish face moves on slabby kitty litter lead to some nice brown rock. 6 bolts to Mussy Hooks. Anchor at top is sort of a rope shredder if you are getting lowered due to a sharp plate just below the Mussy Hooks.

Susan's Notes: Route is farthest right on the crag just before an extremely exfoliating corridor. First two bolts are up some thin entry moves entwined with orange lichen.

Location 

Far right side of the crag. Start in the white rock and head up and left following the bolts.

Protection 

6 bolts to Mussy Hooks. Highly Recommended to extend from anchors for TR.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 2, 2012

Horrible anchor placement. Bring a rope you don't mind trashing or extendo-runners to bring beyond the sharp flake that's a rope eater. Also recommended to rap when done, the lower and/or TR is a killer.

Of the 6 routes on the crag this route and B will yield you the best climbing.