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The Canal Zone
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Aretnophobia S 
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Gondolier Arete S 
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Route Canal T 
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Whopper, The S 

Route Canal 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 6,762
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (172)
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Come on now, a rack's not that heavy... bring one ...

Raptor Closures / Upper Canyon Road closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb the clean dihedral crack, face climb past the bolt and pull through to the anchors.


See the photo topo.


Gear to 4" and one bolt, finish at the anchors on Gondolier Arete.

Photos of Route Canal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just need a couple cams....
Just need a couple cams....
Rock Climbing Photo: Myong workin' the crack.
Myong workin' the crack.

Comments on Route Canal Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 9, 2014
By Alison Conrad
Jul 25, 2008

Gear used 2 #1 Cams, 2 #0.75, and 1 or 2 #0.5 cams. I also used one quickdraw. A little mungy after the bolt. A better alternative maybe to clip the last 2 bolts on Gondolier Arete to finish the route.
By Tim Kline
From: Littleton, co
Aug 31, 2008

Excellent route, I'm so glad it wasn't bolted, there is one bolt at the top you can use or just place a nut. Great dihedral. Great moves all the way through to the top.
By adrenalated
From: Denver, CO
Sep 10, 2008

Route Canal to the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete is a three star line, IMO (Gondolier Canal?). 5.8 liebacks or crack climbing leads to an obvious, easy traverse into the crux section of the arete. Protects well with medium cams (#1.25 - 2.5 Friends).
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Sep 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead.
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 17, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Jam, layback, or stem... user's choice. A fun route that can be done many ways. Nothing too big for gear.
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 24, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is a good TR but not worth taking up a rack for.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 24, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bolt at the top works as a good directional to TR from the arete route. Fun and somewhat similar to the 5.7 crack route on Lookout Mountain Crag. Hollow flake midway makes for a questionable first gear placement.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Good hand crack - for CCC - you only need a couple cams #0.75 to #2 Camalot would do.
By Hoag
From: Littleton, CO
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun route. It would be a 5.9 if there weren't so many face hold options on the line. I used a BD 1, BD 0.75, A finger-sized Metolius, another BD 0.75, and a quick draw for the bolt. It's a fun route and a good place to practice hand jams. The lower part of the crack is also a good place to teach someone how to build and anchor. Bring some BD 2s if you plan on doing that.
By slim
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not sure where a 4" piece would go. Really nice route with a well placed bolt and fun, secure climbing.
By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 6, 2011

I had fun on this climb today, but I did it top-rope from the Gondolier Arete anchors, because I didn't see the point in bringing trad-gear to the Canal Zone. Definitely would be a good lead for someone working on leading 5.8-5.9.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Straightforward (huge relief compared to trying Vedauwoo 5.9!!!) with a little bit of UK 5a bridging at the top.
By Snow Lily
From: Golden
Aug 9, 2014

We took a rack. Hard, but fun and satisfying. Crux near the top.
Come on, bring your rack, it's not that far of a walk from the car. Go for it, sporty folks!

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