Route Canal 5.9-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008 |
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Come on now, a rack's not that heavy... bring one ...
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Description Climb the clean dihedral crack, face climb past the bolt and pull through to the anchors.
Location See the photo topo.
Protection Gear to 4" and one bolt, finish at the anchors on Gondolier Arete.
Just need a couple cams....
| Myong workin' the crack.
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By Alison Conrad Jul 25, 2008
| Gear used 2 #1 Cams, 2 #0.75, and 1 or 2 #0.5 cams. I also used one quickdraw. A little mungy after the bolt. A better alternative maybe to clip the last 2 bolts on Gondolier Arete to finish the route. |
By Tim Kline From: Littleton, co Aug 31, 2008
| Excellent route, I'm so glad it wasn't bolted, there is one bolt at the top you can use or just place a nut. Great dihedral. Great moves all the way through to the top. |
By Jeff Welch From: Thornton, CO Sep 10, 2008
| Route Canal to the last two bolts on Gondolier Arete is a three star line, IMO (Gondolier Canal?). 5.8 liebacks or crack climbing leads to an obvious, easy traverse into the crux section of the arete. Protects well with medium cams (#1.25 - 2.5 Friends). |
By Steve Knapp From: Highlands Ranch, CO Sep 13, 2008 rating: 5.9
| This can be done on toprope using the same anchor as Gondolier Arete after someone has led it. Super fun crack in a dihedral. Would be a very nice lead. |
By AOSR From: Denver Sep 17, 2008 rating: 5.8
| Jam, layback, or stem... user's choice. A fun route that can be done many ways. Nothing too big for gear. |
By Casey Bernal From: Arvada, CO Sep 24, 2008 rating: 5.8+
| This route is a good TR but not worth taking up a rack for. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 24, 2008 rating: 5.8+
| Bolt at the top works as a good directional to TR from the arete route. Fun and somewhat similar to the 5.7 crack route on Lookout Mountain Crag. Hollow flake midway makes for a questionable first gear placement. |
By Ben Burnett Jun 2, 2010 rating: 5.9-
| Good hand crack - for CCC - you only need a couple cams #0.75 to #2 Camalot would do. |
By Hoag From: Littleton, CO Jul 18, 2011 rating: 5.8+
| This is a fun route. It would be a 5.9 if there weren't so many face hold options on the line. I used a BD 1, BD 0.75, A finger-sized Metolius, another BD 0.75, and a quick draw for the bolt. It's a fun route and a good place to practice hand jams. The lower part of the crack is also a good place to teach someone how to build and anchor. Bring some BD 2s if you plan on doing that. |
By slim Aug 9, 2011 rating: 5.7
| Not sure where a 4" piece would go. Really nice route with a well placed bolt and fun, secure climbing. |
By Robert Buswold From: Longmont, CO Sep 6, 2011
| I had fun on this climb today, but I did it top-rope from the Gondolier Arete anchors, because I didn't see the point in bringing trad-gear to the Canal Zone. Definitely would be a good lead for someone working on leading 5.8-5.9. |
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