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From the oak tree, start up a face directly below the roof above. At 20' you will pass a bolt and then climb a flaring groove (possible pro). Above this climb past a very small pocket (nut pro) and then cam the roof/flake (double cam it if possible). Then friction up over the roof (steep) and clip. From here (crux), things are mentally easier. Continue up past 5 bolts (5 above roof) to new anchors (not set on FA) near huge flake/corner.
6 bolts plus gear: small nuts to large cams #3+4 Camalot.
Dec 20, 2008
John Knight stated he replaced a 1/4" bolt on this route.
I did the FA of this route and we didn't place any 1/4" bolts on the FA in 1993, so I'm not sure what bolt he replaced, but it wasn't on Route Canal.
|By Chris Bersbach|
From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Jun 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
I would be pretty skeptical of any gear in the shallow, flaring seam between the first bolt and the small pocket. I opted not to trust it and just ran it out, but definitely be aware that you'll either be trusting *very* suspect gear, or putting in a 30ish foot runout that would likely result in a long, rough slide to a grounder if you blew it. However, the moves through this section are no harder than 5.7, if that, so you've got that going for you.
The rest of the climb is very well equipped, and the crux move definitely isn't harder than 10b by Bishop Peak standards.