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Eagle Bluff
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Route Awakening 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JB, RG 10/98
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Matt Swartz on Apr 28, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Getting up the the roof.
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Description 

A good way to access the Toilet Bowl feature - not to be missed.

Start right of Cereal Killer on a clean slab below a small roof. Climb the slab on ledges trending right to below the roof. Go around the right side of the roof and up the face following a groove. Follow the bolt line (10b) or stay slightly right (easier) up to a ledge with a bolt anchor.


Location 

Below a small roof between Lemmings in Lycra and Cereal Killer.


Protection 

Bolted but further protection can be found at the base of the roof using small pro.



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By Matt Swartz
From: Nederland, CO
Apr 30, 2009

From the ledge at the top of Route Awakening, you can traverse left a little bit to just below a finger/thin hands crack. I don't think this crack is part of another route, and its short, only about 15 feet long. Regardless, its a fun moderate trad lead (5.8?) and also gets you up to the toilet bowl feature. Protect with small aliens or tcu's.

By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Oct 31, 2009

The crack has been rated 5.9+, which I totally disagree with, I like the 5.8, 5.8+ rating much better. But either way, its a great line.

By Scott Brown
Oct 29, 2012

Whats the deal with the finger crack that goes straight up from the middle of the ledge? is that a route? does it lead to anchors, or just fizzle out? i want to to get on it but i'm not sure it goes anywhere.