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BETA PHOTO: Another view of Route 902 the upper half.
P1. Climb the obvious chimney to the right of Southern Comfort
, over a steep section, and into a nice hand crack. Follow this straight up, clipping and passing the first fixed anchor you come to. Climb straight up the hand crack (staying left of the big roof where Southern Comfort
goes up and right). Step up through a short, offwidth section onto a big, flat ledge. You can belay here if you need some sun and warmth, otherwise, continue up the easy chimney for 20 more feet to a fixed rappel anchor, 5.7 (130 feet). It may be possible to rappel from here to the ground with a 70m rope. If not, you can make 2 rappels from here with a single rope.
P2. Climb up the chimney, and struggle through the overhanging squeeze for about ten feet (crux). Continue up the easy gully above to another overhang, cave-like feature. Pull through the overhang, then step out right into a thin finger crack for some face climbing (small TCUs and nuts) to a flat area just below the true summit of Turkey Rock. (You can also continue up the wide crack to the same flat area, but I recommend the face.) 5.7+ (120 feet).
This route is on the sunny side of Turkey Rock and starts at the same place as for Southern Comfort
(uphill from the cliff base area to the west). Look for the obvious, finger crack that is the first pitch of Southern Comfort
. Descend by walking off to the east to the saddle where the trail comes over from the north parking area. Or , if not climbing to the top, there are fixed anchors which would allow you to rappel after one long pitch (ending just below the crux squeeze chimney), or you could set up a short top-rope on the first pitch of Southern Comfort
Standard rack up to 4" will do. If you're a novice crack climber, you may want some extra hand-sized pieces, along with a #5 or #6 Camalot to help protect the squeeze chimney, but this isn't totally necessary (I brought up to a #4).
BETA PHOTO: The wider crack to the right of the nice looking f...
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 23, 2009
For Pitch 2, after the first offwidth crux and gained the area above, Roland went out on the face on the left next to a very small tree. Here chickenheads galore made for a nice variation. Then you step out to the right back into the crack that takes you to the top.
Nov 9, 2015
Chimney/OW seems harder than 5.7 to me. My partner led with his right side in, but I had more success with left side in (i.e., facing the right) as I think it had more features for feet and such. I feel like a #6 would be nice to protect these moves... we had a only a #4 which wasn't useful until near the end of the crux.