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Turkey Rock
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Glen's Pancake 
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In Style, Out of Fashion 
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Rastafarian 
Route 902 
Satyr's Asshole 
Second Coming 
Southern Comfort 
Stewart's Crack 
Straw Turkey 
Tofonareeker 
Tryptophane 
Turkey Shoot 
Vanishing Point 
Wild Fire 

Route 902 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Doug Snively, Steve Cheyney, & Steve Jones - Aug., '72
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 20, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: The wider crack to the right of the nice looking f...

Description 

P1) Climb the obvious chimney to the right of Southern Comfort, over a steep section, and into a nice hand crack. Follow this straight up, clipping and passing the first fixed anchor you come to. Climb straight up the hand crack (staying left of the big roof where Southern Comfort goes up and right). Step up through a short off-width section onto a big flat ledge. You can belay here if you need some sun and warmth, otherwise, continue up the easy chimney for 20 more feet to a fixed rappel anchor. 5.7 (130 feet). It may be possible to rappel from here to the ground with a 70m rope. If not, you can make 2 rappels from here with a single rope.

P2) Climb up the chimney, and struggle through the overhanging squeeze for about ten feet (crux). Continue up the easy gully above to another overhang, cave-like feature. Pull through the overhang, then step out right into a thin finger crack for some face climbing (small TCUs and nuts) to a flat area just below the true summit of Turkey Rock. (You can also continue up the wide crack to the same flat area, but I recommend the face). 5.7+ (120 feet).


Location 

This route is on the sunny side of Turkey Rock and starts at the same place as for Southern Comfort (uphill from the cliff base area to the west). Look for the obvious, finger crack that is the first pitch of Southern Comfort. Descend by walking off to the east to the saddle where the trail comes over from the north parking area. Or , if not climbing to the top, there are fixed anchors which would allow you to rappel after one long pitch (ending just below the crux squeeze chimney), or you could set up a short top-rope on the first pitch of Southern Comfort.


Protection 

Standard rack up to 4" will do. If you're a novice crack climber, you may want some extra hand-sized pieces, along with a #5 or #6 Camalot to help protect the squeeze chimney, but this isn't totally necessary (I brought up to a #4).



Photos of Route 902 Slideshow Add Photo
Another view of Route 902 the upper half.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of Route 902 the upper half.
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By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 23, 2009

For Pitch 2, after the first offwidth crux and gained the area above, Roland went out on the face on the left next to a very small tree. Here chickenheads galore made for a nice variation. Then you step out to the right back into the crack that takes you to the top.