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Saddle Peak
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Last Dance S 
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Route 7 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Nearing the middle of Route #7.

Description 

Face and discontinuous crack climbing up the left side of the slab. Crux is the roof-move to the anchor.

Location 

obvious slab to the right of the central routes. Shares an anchor with route #8.

Protection 

4 bolts + anchors. Routes 7 and 8 were intended as mixed routes. Small rack of wires and cams up to #3 recommended if you want to protect the runouts, or forgo the gear to make it "sporty".


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By jard
From: Los Angeles
Oct 15, 2012

Do take a #2 or #3 cam to protect yourself from a ground fall... or just run it out.

Seems pointless to have this route (or any routes at this crag) be mixed trad/sport. If it were up to me, I would just put in another bolt so noobs can lead it safely and remove the PG13 rating. Same goes for route #8. It's not like you are going to learn to climb trad by placing one cam half way up a bolted slab... to bolted anchors at the top. ;-)
By Maidy
Jun 23, 2013

Mixed routes may seem "pointless" to some, but it's the way the FAist put it them so we've left them as originally conceived. People should treat this as an opportunity. These are actually good training routes for beginning trad leaders since the initial moves are bolt protected and the gear-section is easy climbing.
By Ancent
Apr 19, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

OK route. The middle and top portions are run out, but it hardly requires any new bolting. The middle run out is ground fall territory but the holds are positive. The top run out is safer. As already stated, a #2 protects the middle and a #.75 protects the top.
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