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Saddle Peak
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Block/Gully Var. 
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Xeno Dance 

Route 6 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 343
Submitted By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
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Description 

A variation start to the center routes that follows the right-side weaknesses. It merges with route #5 at the 4th bolt and has the same finish. A mixed-gear variation finishes up the big crack on the right.


Location 

Right-side central route that starts at the tree and shares the central anchor with routes 4 and 5.


Protection 

7 bolts + anchors. Well protected but optional gear in the .4-#2 range if you would like to protect the easy runouts.
A fun, alternate finish: clip the first three bolts then climb the large right-side crack which takes med to large gear. Extra 3" helpful. I'd give the trad-finish an extra star.



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By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Apr 30, 2012

This route has a lot of spots for pretty good trad gear.

By Wil Sterner
From: Topanga, California
Oct 9, 2013

Saw this one go on gear only. The leader didn't fall but we were optimistic that some of the cams would have held.