Route 6  5.10 PG13

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  unknown, 1970s Submitted By:  George Perkins on Feb 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

It's too bad the next shallow corner right of Unrelenting Nines is kind of sandy and dirty, because the climbing is pretty fun with good exposure, and it's another lighter 5.10 at the Playground. The dirtiness is probably largely due to lack of traffic, which is probably because the guidebooks emphasize the 5.12 rating rather than the 5.10 variation.

It is easiest to begin in the big corner to the right and traverse in along a big flake/rail, then make moves up a featured arete to gain the shallow corner. At the top, the features in this corner peter out- face climb using a flake to the right for a couple moves before exit. For the 5.12a grade, use the direct start in a seam on the face to the left.

There are a few places for gear, but expect 5.10 moves with the last gear placement below your feet. The 5.12 variation reportedly protects well enough for a 5.12 leader.

Location 

This is the next climbable corner right of Unrelenting Nines, near the left end of the Playground. The hard start (12a) is about 6' right of Nines; the easier start is in the next inside corner to the right, under an alcove.

Protection 

Cams to 2", and nuts, including RPs.