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 ADVANCED
Saddle Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Block/Gully Var. S 
Christmas Chronicle S 
Last Dance S 
Richard's Rift T 
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 
Route 3 S 
Route 4 S 
Route 4 1/2 T 
Route 5 S 
Route 6 S 
Route 7 T,S 
Route 8 T,S 
Route 9 S 
Xeno Dance S 

Route 3 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009

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Yvonne leads Route 3 on a slightly cool and slight...

Description 

Middle section of route feels a bit run out and wanders, looks like there are a couple of variations bolted on this route - but follow the left bolt line to the anchors. This is a fun route despite the wandering nature. I often wondered if the route was originally intended to be a mixed trad sport route as there are lots of cracks that could potentially be used for trad gear. Although, the rock is a sandstone/conglomerate and rock strength could be an issue.

Location 

3rd route on wall from left - start is to the right of the big crack. Walk off or rappel.

Protection 

6-7 bolts to 3 bolt anchors with rap rings - shares anchors with Route 1 and 2.


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Eddie leads Route #3
Eddie leads Route #3

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By Maidy
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Route #3: Fun climb. Recommend climbing directly up the natural line to make this more enjoyable. Climb the small roof (use the right side 1st bolt) to the arete, then straight up the obvious face/cracks as nature intended. A little sporty in spots. Optional gear placements for the cracks, but the bolts are where you need them

Edit to add: Route 3 now has it's own anchor (chains).

Left-Gully Variation: (Now listed as the "Block Gully Route"). Clip the left side 1st bolt then head out left to 2 random bolts on the large blocks. (Kinda confusing).