|Below The Old New Place
The slabby face between two cracks left of Sardonic Smile hosts a contrived 5.11+ sport climb.
This route requires bearing down on small and sometimes painful crimps and occasional pockets as you solve a thin face puzzle, while maintaining the discipline to avoid the cracks on either side of the 5' slab you're climbing on. (Grab a crack, even once, and you're downrated to 5.9, or 5.10 or or something like that.) The crux is at a thin section near the last bolt that requires tricky footwork to a reach. This climb is less than vertical so it isn't as pumpy as other 5.11s at BONP. Using the cracks/aretes makes for an ok 5.9/5.10 sport climb.
You can TR this route from the anchor, which can can be reached by climbing the 5.8 crack climb immediately to its left, or by climbing the 5.10d sport climb on the arete to the left.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By Sky Sjue|
From: Santa Fe
Jan 29, 2013
When I can simultaneously use both cracks while center-punching past the bolts, in my estimation that's a bit too contrived for me to care. But it was still fun.