|Below The Old New Place
The wide crack between 2 unknown sport climbs is one of the easier cracks at BONP, but the wideness of the crack makes it awkward. Cruxes include pulling past a bulge 15' up and another crux before you reach the ledge below the chains. This isn't actually that bad of a climb, and you can lieback or use face holds for much or all of the climb to avoid putting your arms and legs in the offwidth crack.
The crack climb between Unknown #25 sport climb and Unknown #27 sport climb.
Cams: hand/fist/OW size, up to 5". 5.8 leaders probably will be happier if they have a #5 cam.
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 9, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A comfortable rack for this would be (2)#4 Camalots, (2)#5 Camalots, an a #6 Camalot for the top out moves. This climb is a little dirty but actually pretty fun and worth at least doing once. The only turnoff is the Sardonic Death boulder that looms directly above this climb.