|Below The Old New Place
An enjoyable finger crack in a shallow dihedral leads to a steep, bulging finish that ends up being easier and more fun than it looks from below.
Scramble five feet up onto the good ledge and follow the nice finger crack and pockets on the walls up to rock of lesser, but still OK, quality just below the bulge. Find some nice big holds below and above the bulge and pull up over it into good rock and a nice semi-laybacking section to the shared anchors with Fat Boys Don't Fly.
The route is the obvious finger crack just left of Fat Boys Don't Fly. It would be route number 22 in the BTONP right-side routes photo.
A standard set of nuts and small to medium cams up to 1". The Jemez Rock book description states pro up to 2" but I never found anything larger than the .75 camalot.