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 ADVANCED
Below The Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
Instant Dogma S 
L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
Route 24 T 
Route 25 S 
Route 26 T 
Route 27 S 
Route 31 S 
Route 32 T 
Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

Route 22 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on May 2, 2008

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Description 

An enjoyable finger crack in a shallow dihedral leads to a steep, bulging finish that ends up being easier and more fun than it looks from below.
Scramble five feet up onto the good ledge and follow the nice finger crack and pockets on the walls up to rock of lesser, but still OK, quality just below the bulge. Find some nice big holds below and above the bulge and pull up over it into good rock and a nice semi-laybacking section to the shared anchors with Fat Boys Don't Fly.


Location 

The route is the obvious finger crack just left of Fat Boys Don't Fly. It would be route number 22 in the BTONP right-side routes photo.


Protection 

A standard set of nuts and small to medium cams up to 1". The Jemez Rock book description states pro up to 2" but I never found anything larger than the .75 camalot.



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